I-Duke kunye neDuchess yaseWindsor

I-Duke kunye neeDutches zeWindsor eGrand Canyon

Ukuba uluhlu oluBalaseleyo luka-Bet-tina Zilkha lwamazwe aphesheya lwanikezelwa kwizibini ezitshatileyo, iDuke kunye neDuchess yaseWindsor iya kuba ngukumkani nokumkanikazi. Njengabantu ngabanye, iimpembelelo zabo kwinkulungwane yamashumi amabini zazinkulu, kodwa xa zidityanisiwe zazingenakuphikiswa. Ukusukela ngeminyaka yoo-1930 ukuya kowe-1960, impembelelo ababenayo yayiyeyona icace gca kwimithombo yeendaba eyathi yonyusa amandla abo kwingcinga yoluntu.

I-Biography ka-Prince Edward, uDuke wase Windsor kunye neDuchess yase Windsor, uNee Bessie Wallis Warfield

I-Duke yase Windsor yazalwa iNkosana u-Edward wase-York nge-23 ka-Juni ngo-1894. Ngokufa kukatatomkhulu wakhe, u-King Edward VII ngo-1910, utata wakhe wathweswa isithsaba njengo-King George V. Ekungeneni kukayise, u-Prince Edward wase-York waba ngu-Duke Edward wase-Cornwall , Kwaye ngomhla weshumi elinesithandathu wokuzalwa kwakhe, iPrince Edward yase Wales.

Yintoni efanekiselwa ngamakhandlela amane okufika?

Amanqaku afanelekileyo

Mainbocher
Uluhlu oluNxibe okona kulungileyo
I-Diana Princess yaseWales ifuthe lefashoni

UBessie Wallis Warfield, owayezakuba yiDuchess yaseWindsor, wazalelwa ePennsylvania ngomhla we-19 kuJuni 1896. Ukukhuliswa kwakhe, ngokwamkelwa kwakhe, kwakululamile kwaye kungacacanga. Xa wadibana nePrince Edward yaseWales okokuqala ngqa nge-1930, wayetshatile kabini. Umyeni wakhe wokuqala yayingu-Earl Winfield Spencer Jr., kwaye owesibini yayingu-Ernest Aldrich Simpson, waseMelika owayehlala eLondon.

Yamkelwa jikelele into yokuba iNkosana yase Wales kunye noNkosk Simpson baqala ukuthandana ngo 1934. Emva kokusweleka kuka King George V, inkosana yabhengezwa njenge King Edward VIII ngomhla wama 20 kuJanyuwari 1936. Ngelo hlobo, wathabatha uNkosikazi Simpson wamsa kwisikhephe. iholide kwi-Mpuma yeMeditera. Ukushicilelwa kolu hambo kwakusenza ihlazo, lisenza nzima isigqibo sokumkani sokutshata noNksk Simpson. IPalamente yasikhaba isicelo somtshato kakumkani ngenxa yesimo sobume bukaNkosazana Simpson njengowasemzini oqhele umtshato kabini. Kwavela 'Ingxaki yoMgaqo-siseko', eyakhokelela ekuthinjweni kukakumkani ngomhla we-11 kuDisemba ngo-1936. Kwintetho yakhe yokuthintela, wacacisa, 'Kufuneka undikholelwe xa ndikuxelela ukuba ndikubone kunzima ukwenza umthwalo onzima woxanduva nokukhupha Umsebenzi wam njengoKumkani njengoko ndinqwenela ukukwenza, ngaphandle kwenkxaso yomfazi endimthandayo '(Ziegler, iphe. 331).

Emva kokuthinjwa kwakhe, waba kukuphakama kwakhe kobukhosi i-Duke yase Windsor, kwaye ngomtshato wakhe noNksk Simpson nge-3 kaJuni 1937, waba liDuchess yaseWindsor. Isihloko esithi Ukuphakama kwakhe kwasebukhosini, nangona kunjalo, khange anikwe yena. Ngaphandle kokuchitha ixesha kwi-Bahamas ngexesha leMfazwe yesibini (II) yeDuke kunye neDuchess yaseWindsor bahlala elubhacweni eFrance ubomi babo bonke. Isidwangube sasweleka nge-18 Meyi 1972, ngelixa ii-duchess, ezagqitywa ukubonwa esidlangalaleni ngo-1975, zasweleka ngomhla wama-24 ku-Epreli 1986.

I-Duke: Iseti yoPhuculo

I-Duke kunye neDuchess yaseWindsor eCascais, ePortugal-ngo-1940

Ngaphezulu kwawo nawuphi na omnye umntu, iDuke yaseWindsor yayijongene notshintsho lwelokhwe yamadoda kwinkulungwane yamashumi amabini. Ukhetho lwakhe lobuqu lokwala imibono efunyenwe nguVictorian kunye no-Edwardian 'aluchaphazelanga nje kuphela amadoda esizukulwana sakhe, kodwa kananjalo-njengoko uChanel enconywa ngokwenza nabafazi-wadala iparadigm yanamhlanje eqhubekayo unanamhla. Into eyathethwa nguNicholas Lawford ngaye nge-1930s yahlala iyinyani kuDuke ubomi bakhe bonke, 'Kwilizwe apho amadoda ethanda ukujongeka ngokufanayo, ubonakala engaphezulu kunanini na ngaphambili enesakhono sokungajongwa njengomnye umntu' (Menkes (Iphe. 95).

I-Duke yase Windsor ikhethe iimpahla ezintle ezivumela inkululeko yokuhamba, isitayile asichaze njenge 'dress soft' (iDuke yase Windsor, 1960, iphe. 110). Ngoo-1930, wayengomnye wamadoda okuqala ukunxiba iibhatyi ezingacwangciswanga. Ukusukela ngo-1919 ukuya ku-1959, ezi zinto zenzelwa yena nguFrederick Scholte, ozelwe e-Dutch, wase-London, umthungi ongakhange avume naluphina uhlobo lokubaxa kwindlela yebhatyi. Njengoko isikhulu satsho Ialbham yoSapho , incwadi yakhe yesitayile ebhalwe ngo-1960, 'uScholte wayenemigangatho engqongqo malunga nokulingana okulinganayo phakathi kwamagxa kunye nesinqe esinqeni sebhatyi ukunxibisa umzimba womntu' (iDuke yaseWindsor, 1960, iphe. 99). Imikhono yeebhatyi ze-duke yayihlala ihonjiswe ngamaqhosha amane, kwaye wakhetha iipokotho ezamkelekileyo endaweni yeempuphu.

Phambi kweMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi, uForster noNyana eLondon balungiselela ibhulukhwe yesikhulu. Andizange ndibe nebhulukhwe eyenziwe nguScholte, utshilo umlawuli. 'Andikuthandi ukusikwa kwabo; zazenziwe, njengokuba ibhulukhwe yesiNgesi ihlala injalo, ukuba zinxitywe ngeebrakhwe eziphakamileyo ngaphezulu kwesinqe. Kungoko ke ndikhethe njengokuba bendinxiba ibhanti kunokuba ndibhinqe ngebrukhwe, kwindlela yaseMelika, bendisoloko ndiyenza ngomnye umthungi '(The Duke of Windsor, 1960, p. 103). Ibhatyi nganye eyenziweyo ibhlukhwe ezimbini. Ezi wayenxiba ngokujikeleza ngokungqongqo. Ngo-1934, kunye nomntakwabo, uDuke wase-York, kunye nomzala wakhe, u-Lord Louis Mountbatten, watshintsha indawo yeempukane eziqhelekileyo ngeempukane. Etshaya kakhulu ubomi bakhe bonke, isikhulu sayalela uForster noNyana ukuba mabenze ibhulukhwe yakhe epokothweni ebanzi kancinane enganxitywanga, nto leyo emvumela ukuba afikelele kwityesi yakhe yecuba, awayehlala eyiphatha kwisingxobo sakhe sasekhohlo. Isikhulu sakhetha iibhulukhwe ezinamaqebengwana okanye ii-turn-up. Ngokwamkelwa kwezithintelo e-Bhritane ngexesha leMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi, eyayithintela uguquko, wabeka yonke iodolo kuH.Harris, umthungi oseNew York.

Inkampani yaseLondon yePeal kunye neCo yenza izihlangu zesidwangube, uLock kunye no-Co iminqwazi yakhe, kunye neeHawes kunye noCurtis iihempe kunye neetayi zakhe. Wayethanda iihempe ezinee-cuffs ezithambileyo, ezingafakwanga inkwenkwezi kunye neekhola kwaye wayenxiba iiqhina zakhe, awayezi-odola nge-linings zangaphakathi ezingqindilili, ngeqhina elibanzi 'lesandla-sine'. Ngaphandle kwezimvo ezithandwayo, uMlawuli waseWindsor akazange enxibe isimbo esaziwa njenge 'Windsor knot.' Njengoko echaza, 'Oko kubizwa ngokuba yi' Windsor knot, 'bendikholelwa ukuba umgaqo unxitywa kwii-GI ngexesha lemfazwe, xa amakhwenkwe aseMelika ekholeji ayamkela nayo. Kodwa enyanisweni andikhange ndibekek 'ityala ngale nto. Iqhina apho amaMelika alinike igama lam yayiliqhina eliphindwe kabini kumtya omxinwa- 'uSlim Jim' njengoko ngamanye amaxesha ibizwa njalo '(The Duke of Windsor, 1960, p. 116).

iingoma ngokusweleka konyana

Njengomntu onomdla kwezemidlalo, iDuke yaseWindsor yathathela ingqalelo ekhethekileyo isinxibo sakhe semidlalo. Kwii-1920s, wenza ukuba ukunxitywa kwezine zidityaniswe, ezaba sisinxibo sakhe somgangatho wokuzingela kunye nemidlalo. Engayithandi indlela yesiko ngokudibanisa ezantsi kwamadolo, wavelisa ingubo evulekileyo enethambo ethambileyo, awayeyinxiba kancinane kuneesentimitha ezine zemveli ezantsi kwedolo. Xa edlala igalufa, wayenxiba iisokisi ezinemibala eqaqambileyo yeArgyle kunye nejezi zase-Isle. Ethetha ngeNkosana edlalayo, u-Law-ford wathi, 'Wayengxola ngendlela awayexuba ngayo iitsheki zakhe, kodwa wayemela isimbo kwisizukulwana sakhe' (Menkes, iphe. 102).

Njengempahla yakhe yezemidlalo, isinxibo se-Duke esezintabeni sivakalisa ukusetyenziswa kweqonga kunye nokuqaqamba kwemibala, ipateni kunye nokuthungwa. Wayenxibe iikhiltshi, ezihlala zenziwe nguChalmers wase-Oban okanye uWilliam Anderson kunye noonyana baseScotland, kwiindawo ezingabalulekanga, ihlala ikwi-'Mill, 'ukubuyela umva ngeempelaveki eWindsor ngaphandle nje kweParis. Ezi wayeza kuzinxiba ngesiporho sesikhumba, apho wayegcina khona icuba lakhe. Isikhulu sakhetha 'iitartan endinelungelo lokuzinxiba-Royal Stuart, Hunting Stuart, Rothesay, Lord of the Isles, Balmoral' (The Duke of Windsor, 1960, p. 128). Kwi Ialbham yoSapho , Isidwangube sichaza ukunxiba isuti yeRothesay yokuzingela itartan, eyayingokayise, eyabangela ukuba kuthengiswe itartan kwiminyaka yoo-1950,

Kwenzeka ukuba ndiyinxibe ngorhatya lunye isidlo sangokuhlwa eLa Croe kufutshane naseAntibes, apho mna neDuchess sahlala khona okwethutyana emva kwemfazwe yokugqibela. Enye yeendwendwe zethu yathetha inyani kumhlobo kurhwebo lwefashoni yamadoda, owathi ngokukhawuleza wahambisa iindaba eMelika. Kwisithuba seenyanga ezimbalwa itartan yayiyeyona nto ithandwayo kuzo zonke iintlobo zengubo yobudoda, ukusuka kwiidyasi zedinala kunye neecummerbunds ukuya kwimipu yokuqubha kunye neebhulukhwe ezimfutshane zolwandle. Emva kwexesha i-craze yade yaya nasemithwalweni (iDuke yaseWindsor, iphe. 129). '

Enye yeendlela eziphambili zeDuke yaseWindsor yayikukungeniswa, ngeminyaka yoo-1920, isuti yasebusuku ezinzulwini zobusuku, enye indlela enxibe isuti emnyama yangokuhlwa. Efuna ukuphucula imeko yakhe enxibe kakuhle kumaphepha-ndaba athandwayo kunye nokuthambisa ukunxiba okusemthethweni kwamadoda, ucacisile,

'Ngokwenyani bendivelisiwe' njengenkokeli yefashoni, abanxibi njengabamisi bam kunye nehlabathi njengabaphulaphuli bam. Indoda esembindini kule nkqubo yayingumfoti, engaqeshwanga yi-Cofa kuphela kodwa nangorhwebo, umsebenzi wakhe yayikukundifota ngalo lonke ixesha, eluntwini okanye labucala, ndineliso elikhethekileyo kwinto endandiyinxibile ( UMlawuli waseWindsor, 1960, iphe. 114). '

INkosana yase Wales yaqonda ukuba kumfanekiso omnyama nomhlophe, ngokungafaniyo nomnyama, ezinzulwini zobusuku luvumela ukuba iinkcukacha ezifihlakeleyo zokulungiswa, ezinjengeelaphu, amaqhosha kunye neepokotho, zibonakale ngakumbi.

Kungenxa yale mifanekiso uDuke waseWindsor ephembelele amadoda anemfashini kwisizukulwana sakhe, kwaye, ewe, uyaqhubeka nokuchaphazela amadoda anemfashini namhlanje. Ngoyilo lwabo, uRalph Lauren, uPaul Smith, uSean John Combes, kunye nenqwaba yamanye amadoda abanxibe iimpahla banika imbeko kuDuke waseWindsor ngobuchule kunye nendlela engacacanga yokuzazisa. NjengoDiana Vreeland (1906-1989), umhleli we IHarper's Bazaar kwaye Vogue , wathi ngaye, 'Ngaba wayenaso isitayela? I-Duke yase Windsor yayinesitayile kuwo onke amaqokobhe ekhilikithi, itsheki yelizwe lakhe '(Menkes, iphe. 126).

IiDuchess: Umlandeli wendlela

Isambatho sangokuhlwa sasePalmyre nguChristian Dior

Ingubo kaChristian Dior yoKuphakama kwakhe kobukumkani, ngo-1952

amabali amafutshane anamhlanje esikolo esiphakamileyo

Ngokungafaniyo nesimbo sikaDuke waseWindsor, ukuzazisa kweDuchess yaseWindsor, njengoko uSuzy Menkes, umhleli wefashoni kwi-International Herald Tribune, eye waqaphela, 'yayiyimveliso yomzamo onzima kunokuba ibe lilifa okanye incasa yendalo' (iphe. 95). Wayengumfanekiso wobuhle, ekhetha iimpahla ezilula, ezilungiselelwe ezingenazinkcukacha zingafunekiyo okanye umhombiso. Wahlala kuLuhlu oluDweliswe ngokuBalaseleyo kumazwe aphesheya iminyaka engaphaya kwamashumi amane, kwathi ekufeni kwakhe ngo-1986, uElle waphawula, 'Waphakamisa ubungangamsha kwindlela yobugcisa' (Menkes, p. 95).

Ukungabi msulwa yayiluphawu lweDuchess yaseWindsor. Njengokuba u-Cecil Beaton (1904- 1980), umfoti wase-Bhritane, watsho, 'Ukhumbuza enye yezona zimpahla zicocekileyo, zintsha, kwaye ihambelana ne-Vuitton-case' (Beaton, iphe. 27). Umbono wokuqala kaBeonon weeDuchess, owasungulwa ngo-1930 ngaphambi kokuba afumane isihloko sakhe, wawungathandekiyo. Wamkhumbula njengo 'brawny and boned-boned in her sapphire blue velvet' (UTapert noEdkins, iphe. 92). Kwiminyaka emine kamva, nangona kunjalo, xa behlangana kwakhona, iiDuchess zazitshintshile. UBeonon uphendule wathi, 'Ndimthande kakhulu. Ndamfumana eqaqambile kwaye enobukrelekrele, ephucukile kwinkangeleko kunye ne-chic '(UTapert noEdkins, iphe. 92). U-Lady Mendl (u-Elsie de Wolfe), owahlala enguMhlobo weDuchess yaseWindsor kunye nomcebisi kubomi bakhe bonke, ubukhulu becala wayenoxanduva lokutshintsha kukaNksk Simpson. YayinguLady Mendl owamazisa kuMainbocher, owayefanele amnxibe ade athathe umhlala-phantsi ngo-1971. Njengokuba uVreeland ephawulile, 'uMainbocher wayenoxanduva lobucukubhede beDuchess ngokumangalisayo' (Menkes, p. 98).

I-Mainbocher yayiza kwenza umtshato weDuchess yaseWindsor kunye ne-trousseau. Umtshato wawubandakanya ilokhwe elula, enomgangatho wobude kunye nebhatyi ehambelana nemikhono emide kwi-crepe yase 'Wallis Blue'. Umbala wawuphuhliswe ngokukodwa yi-Mainbocher ukulingana naleyo yeDuchess yaseWindsor. Isinxibo sasincedisana nesimbo sikaDuchess sokungakhathali kwefashoni, ethozamile kodwa ingalumkanga. Kungekudala emva komtshato wakhe, iikopi zelokhwe zazithengiswa kubathengisi ngeqhezu elincinci leendleko zokuqala, ukusuka kwiidola ezingama-25 eBenwit Teller ukuya kwi-8.90 nje yeeRandi kwimali kaKlein. Kwiinyanga nje ezimbalwa, ilokhwe 'kaWally' yaya eMelika, apho yayifumaneka kwiivenkile zesebe ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo, imibala, kunye nezinto.

UCecil Beaton waba ngumfoti wezithombe ezingekho mthethweni zeDuchess of Windsor. Kule ndawo, wakwazi ukudlala indima ebalulekileyo ekwakheni nasekuboniseni umfanekiso wakhe woluntu. U-Beaton, eneneni, wathabatha iifoto zomtshato wasebukhosini kusuku olungaphambi komsitho. Kwiiveki ezimbalwa ngaphambi komtshato, wathatha uthotho lweefoto ezaziwayo zeDuchess yaseWindsor enxibe iimodeli ezivela kwingqokelela kaElsa Schiaparelli's Spring / Summer 1937, kubandakanya nembali ethi 'Lobster Dress' eprintwe nguSalvador Dalí. Njengoyilo lwe-Mainbocher, iimpahla zikaSchiaparelli zazibhenela kwiiDuchess zaseWindsor's ezingqongqo, ezazithintela ubuhle. Wayezithanda iisuti zangokuhlwa zikaSchiaparelli, ngakumbi, wabenza uphawu lwentengiso. Ewe, i-duchess yayiyeyona nto intle kuye, enxibe iisuti ezifanelekileyo, imbonakalo leyo uCecil Beaton abhekisa kuyo 'njengeesuti zakhe ezinqabileyo zomfana-wamakhwenkwe' (Menkes, iphe. 102).

Ngelixa iimpahla zasemini zeDuchess yaseWindsor zazithanda ukuba zicace kwaye zilula, isinxibo sakhe sangokuhlwa satyhila ubufazi, ubuntombi obunothando. Ngokutsho kukaDanielle Porthault weYves Saint Laurent, 'Isitayile sakhe sasebukhosini sasisidima emini kunye nefantasy kunye nokuqala ebusuku' (Menkes, iphe. 116). Ngexesha le-1930, iiDuchess zaseWindsor zathanda iMainbocher, iSchiaparelli, kunye neVionnet, ngelixa emva kweMfazwe yesibini (II) yeLizwe wakhetha uDior, uGivenchy kunye noJves Saint Laurent. Ezi wayeza kuzinxiba ngezihlangu nguRoger Vivier, owaqala ukusebenzela i-House of Dior ngo-1953. Ngokuka-Vreeland, enye yeeduchess zaseWindsor ezininzi zezinto ezazisenziwa kwezobugcisa yayiyilokhwe emfutshane yangokuhlwa.

Iresiphi kaDuchess yaseWindsor 'yokuqaqadeka emini kunye nefantasy ebusuku' yayiquka izithako zobukrelekrele kunye nesigqebelo, esivame ukubonakaliswa ekusebenziseni kwakhe ubucwebe. Abathengisi bezinto ezimbini abazithandayo, uCartier kunye noVan Cleef kunye noArpels, bakhuphisana ukubonelela iiDuchess ngobunewunewu obuninzi kunye nendalo entsha. Iisuti zemini ezilula zeDuchess yaseWindsor zingqine ukuba ngumqolo ogqibeleleyo wezikrelemnqa zakhe eziqhwethayo, izacholo, amacici kunye nezacholo zomqala, nanjengoko zazinxitywa ngothando ebusuku. Elinye lamaqhekeza akhe angalibalekiyo lobucwebe yayiyisongo esenziwe ngeminqamlezo enamatye anqabileyo, awayeyinxiba emtshatweni wakhe. Umnqamlezo ngamnye wawumele 'ilitye lokunyathela kwibali labo lothando, kunye nomnqamlezo kwakufuneka bawuthwale' (Menkes, iphe. 151).

IDuchess yaseWindsor yakha yaxelela umhlobo wayo noElsa Maxwell, 'Umyeni wam wancama yonke into ngenxa yam… andingomfazi mhle. Andiyonto ijongwayo, ke ekuphela kwento endinokuyenza kukunxiba ngcono kunaye wonke umntu '(UTapert noEdkins, iphe. 97). Kodwa wenza okungaphezulu kunoko. Wayenganxibi nje kuphela ukongeza i-idiosyncrasies yomzimba wakhe, eyonyuswa kukuqina kwakhe ngu-Alexandre, kodwa wanxiba enolwazi lokuba umfanekiso wakhe uza kwamkelwa njani ngabo bonke abeendaba kunye noluntu. Njengoko uVreeland waphawulayo, 'Wayenesikhundla kwaye wayenxibe kuso' (Menkes, iphe. 138). Kule meko, wayenempembelelo ehlala ihleli kubafazi basebukhosini nakumabhinqa ngokufanayo, mhlawumbi ngakumbi uJacqueline Kennedy kunye noDiana Princess waseWales.

Bona kwakho UDiana Princess waseWales; Iimpawu zeFashoni; Iimagazini zeFashoni; Ukunxiba okusesikweni kwamadoda; Mainbocher; I-Neckties kunye ne-Neckwear; Isinxibo sasebukhosini kunye nesesidlangalaleni; UElsa Schiaparelli; IsiTartan.