UGabrielle Chanel (1883-1971) wazalwa ngaphandle komtshato kwidolophu yaseFrance iSaumur kwiLoire Valley ngomhla we-19 Agasti 1883 esiya kuAlbert Chanel, umthengisi ohambahambayo noJeanne Devolle. Ekugqibeleni abazali bakhe batshata ngoJulayi ka-1884. Umama wakhe wabulawa sisifuba eneminyaka engamashumi amathathu anesithathu. Xa uChanel wayeneminyaka elishumi elinambini kuphela ubudala, wathunyelwa kunye noodadewabo ababini kwikhaya leenkedama e-Aubazine. Ngexesha leeholide amantombazana ahlala noomakhulu nootatomkhulu babo eMoulins. Ngo-1900 uChanel wafudukela apho ngokusisigxina kwaye waya kwisikolo sonqulo kunye nomakazi wakhe u-Adrienne, owayeneminyaka efanayo. Emva kokuba befundiswe ukuthunga ngoonongendi, omabini la mantombazana afumana umsebenzi wokuthunga iimpahla, encedisa uMongameli uHenri Desboutin weNdlu yaseGrampayre.
Umsebenzi wokuqala
Chanel wacula ngexesha lekonsathi ngokuhlwa kwindawo yokutya esefashini ebizwa ngokuba yiLa Rotonde. Kukholelwa ukuba ingoma yakhe ethi 'Qui qu'a vu Coco dans le Trocadéro' yamnika igama lesidlaliso elithi 'Coco.' U-Chanel waqala ukuxubana kwisangqa sefashoni xa wayokuhlala e-1908 kunye no-Étienne Balsan, owazala amahashe omdyarho kwindawo yakhe enkulu eLa Croix-Saint-Ouen. Ukukhetha ngobunono kukaChanel kwezinxibo- iisuti zakhe ezicocekileyo ezenziwe ngesinxibo kunye nokunxiba kwendoda ekhwele- kunye nokuziphatha okuthobekileyo kuye kwamnceda ukuba aphawule kwezinye iinkundla. Ke ngoko kwasebusaneni u-Chanel ubonakalise ukuzithemba okukhulu kwindlela yakhe yesitayile, ifomula engqineke ingenakuphikiswa nakwabanye abantu basetyhini. Kungekudala abahlobo bakaBalsan bamcela ukuba abenzele iikopi zeminqwazi awayeyicheba kwaye eyinxiba. Ukuxhakamfula eli thuba lokuzimela geqe kwezemali, ngo-1908-1909 uChanel wacenga uBalsan ukuba amvumele asebenzise indlu yakhe eParis ngo-160, eBoulevard Malesherbes ukuseka ishishini lezemishini. Waqesha umgubo wobuchule kwaye wadibana nodadewabo u-Antoinette kunye nabanye abancedisi njengoko ishishini lalikhula.
Amanqaku afanelekileyo- Abahamba phambili
- Yves Saint Laurent
- Abadali beengxowa zesandla abadumileyo
Ngelixa uChanel wayeseParis, ubuhlobo bakhe nosomashishini ongusozigidi kunye nomdlali wepolo uArthur Capel, owaziwa njengo 'Mfana,' bakhula baba luthando. Yayingu-Boy owamboleka imali yokurenta indawo yorhwebo kwi-rue Cambon-apho iNdlu yaseChanel yayisekhona kwii-2000s zakuqala-entliziyweni yesithili seParis. Iindlela zeChanel zivulwe nge-21, eRue Cambon ngo-1910. Zisuka nje, uChanel wayeyimodeli efanelekileyo yoyilo lwakhe, kwaye wafotwa ekwindla lowe-1910 lowu magazini Indawo yemidlalo yeqonga: Uphengululo olwenziwe rhoqo ngenyanga. Ngo-1912 iminqwazi nguChanel yabonakala kumajelo eendaba athandwayo, enxitywa ngabadlali abaphambili beli xesha njengoLucienne Roger noGabrielle Dorziat. U-Chanel wayefumene inkululeko yokuzimela. Imiqathango yokuqeshisa kwakhe, nangona kunjalo, imthintele ekuthengiseni iimpahla, kuba bekukho umthungi esele esebenza kweso sakhiwo.
Ukuqokelelwa kokuqala, 1913-1919
Ngelixa wayeseholideyini eDeauville kunxweme olusentshona yeFrance ngehlobo lowe-1913, uBoy Capel wafumana ivenkile eChanel ukuba ivule kwifashoni yendlela uGontaut-Biron, kwaye kulapha ke apho wazisa ingqokelela yakhe yefashoni yokuqala. Ngokuqhambuka kweMfazwe yeHlabathi yokuQala ngoJulayi ka-1914, uninzi lwabantu abazizityebi nabanemfashini baseParis batyhalela e-Deauville kwaye bathenga kwiivenkile zikaChanel. Kukholelwa ukuba uthengise kuphela iimpahla ezilungele ukunxitywa ngalo mhla. U-Chanel wayechebe iinwele zakhe ngeli xesha kwaye uninzi lwabasetyhini lwalukopa iinwele zakhe kunye nokuthenga iimpahla zakhe. Ixesha likaChanel lalifikile: ngokugqibeleleyo kwimeko yabo engaphantsi, uyilo lwabo olwahluka-hlukeneyo kunye nolwezemidlalo lwaluza kungqina ngokugqibeleleyo kubomi obusebenzayo obukhokelwa ngabafazi abaninzi abazizityebi ngexesha lemfazwe.
Ngo-1916 u-Chanel wathenga isitokhwe se-jersey yelaphu eyintsalela kumvelisi we-Rodier, awayenza ingubo engacwangciswanga yekota ezintathu-ubude beebhanti ezinqeni esinqeni kwaye zahonjiswa ngamalaphu obutofotofo okanye uboya, obunxitywe ngeziketi ezifanayo. Oko kuwa kukaChanel kuveze ingqokelela yakhe yokuqala epheleleyo. Inkupho kaMatshi 1917 ka Amacandelo eParis ibonisa iqela lesuti yejezi nguChanel, ezinye zazo zinxitywe kamnandi, ngelixa ezinye zicacile kwaye zifikeleleke ngebhanti enesimbo esineebhedi. Zonke zinxitywe ngeebhulukhwe zentamo ezivulekileyo ezineekhola ezinzulu zoomatiloshe. Uyilo lwango-1918 lwaluquka idyasi yejezi emnyama eboshwe ngoboya bemvundla obomdaka, kunye nelayin kunye neblawuzi yempakamo emhlophe enamachokoza amhlophe: oku kuthelekiswa kwengubo edityaniswe nelokhwe okanye iblawuzi yayiza kuba luphawu lwentengiso lweChanel. Ukutsala ngokulula kwabo kunye nokuya kuthi ga ngoku, ifashoni yeChsen's jersey yabangela uvakalelo.
Ngelixa isinxibo sasemini sikaChanel sasibonakaliswa kukusebenziseka kwesitayile, ukunxiba kwakhe ngorhatya kwakungathandeki. Ngomnyaka we-1919 wazisa iingubo eziethe-ethe kwilokhwe emnyama yeChantilly ngomnatha osontiweyo wegolide kunye neenwele zejeti kunye nezinye izinxibo zesilivere. Imithwalo yevelvet emnyama ehonjiswe ngemigca yenciniba yeenciniba ityhila impembelelo yaseSpain-ukuphakama kwefashoni kobo busika. Lo ibingunyaka oza kuchazelwa ngawo nguChanel, 'Ndivuke ndidumile,' kodwa ikwangunyaka apho uBoy Capel wabulawa kwingozi yemoto.
Ii-1920s
Iifashoni zakudala ze-1920s
Ukusukela ngo-1920 ukuya ku-1923, u-Chanel wenza unxibelelwano kunye ne-duke enkulu u-Dmitri Pavlovitch, umzukulwana ka-Tsar Alexander II wase-Russia, kunye nengqokelela yakhe kule minyaka yayineempembelelo zase-Russia. Eyona nto ibalulekileyo yayililokhwe elinxibayo, iidyasi, iiblawuzi kunye neebhatyi zangokuhlwa ezenziwe ngemibala emnyama nengathathi hlangothi ngemibala eqaqambileyo, enemibala eqaqambileyo, e-folkloric yase-Russia eyayithunyelwe ziingcungcu eziselubhacweni. Ngomnyaka we-1922 uChanel wabonisa iibhulukhwe ezinde, ezibhityileyo, ezinamabhanti asekwe kwimpahla yabalimi baseRussia.
Ngo-1923 wayeqhubeka nokwenza lula ukusikwa kwengubo yakhe kwaye wanikezela ngeempahla ezinqabileyo ezimbalwa, ngelixa iimpahla zakhe ezibomvu ezibomvu kunye ne-beige yayiyimibala eyintandokazi kulo nyaka-ebonakalise ngakumbi uyilo olunqandiweyo kunye nolwanamhlanje. I-Chanel ikhokelele imeko yamazwe aphesheya kwii-hemlines ezimfutshane. Isakhiwo sakhe esise-rue Cambon, esele sande ngo-1919, sakhula sabandakanya amanani angama-27, 29 nama-31 kwii-1920s zokuqala.
Iziqholo
I-Classic Chanel inombolo yesi-5
I-Chanel iphehlelele isiqholo sayo sokuqala, i-Chanel engu-5, ngo-1921. Ngokucacileyo kwathiwa igama linombolo yethamsanqa lomyili, u-5 wahlanganiswa ngu-Ernest Beaux, owayesebenzisa i-aldehydes (i-organic compound evelisa ii-asidi xa i-oxidized kunye ne-alcohol xa incitshisiwe) ukuphucula Ivumba lezinto zendalo ezinje ngejasmine, inowuthi yesiqholo. I-Chanel iyile ibhotile yesitayile samanje kunye nokupakisha kwe-monochrome. I-Chanel No. 5 yaba sisiqholo sokuqala ukuthwala igama lomyili. Ukwakha kwimpumelelo yeNombolo 5, uChanel wazisa uCuir de Russie (1924), iBois des Îles (1926), kunye neGardénia (1927) ngaphambi kokuphela kweminyaka elishumi.
Amakhwenkwe
Ukutolikwa kukaChanel kwezitayile zobudoda kunye nezemidlalo-iblazers zakhe, iibhulukhwe ezinxibayo, kunye neehempe ezinee-cufflinks, kunye nokukhetha kwakhe amalaphu-aphefumlelwe kakhulu zizambatho ezinxitywe sisidwangube saseWestminster (indoda eliNgesi awayebandakanyeka nayo phakathi kowe-1923 nowe-1930 ) kunye nabahlobo bakhe abakhulu. Ukulandela iholide yokuloba eScotland, wazisa abathengi bakhe kwi-Fair Isle woolens kunye neetweed. Isikhulu sathenga ilitye lokusila ukuze likhusele amalaphu akhethekileyo kwisitayile sakhe esitsha. U-Chanel uphinde waphefumlelwa zizinto ezithobekileyo zeengubo zobudoda, kubandakanya iibharethi, iibhatyi ezinqabileyo, ii-dungarees zoomatshini, iisacholo zamatye, kunye neesuti zokuhamba ngeenqanawa, awayezinikezela kubathengi bakhe abazizityebi. U-Chanel ngokwakhe wayehlala enxibe ibhulukhwe yesitayile somkhumbi, etyeshela imithetho yendlela yokuziphatha eyayithintela abafazi ekunxibeni ibhulukhwe elunxwemeni okanye ngaphakathi ekhaya njengepijama zangokuhlwa.
Ngo-1927 Vogue yacebisa isuti yejezi kaChanel kwithambile yoboya obususwini, enekhola, iikhafu, iblawuzi, kunye nebhatyi enxibe ijezi ye rose, kowasetyhini owayefuna ukubonakala e-chic enqanaweni. Ibhatyi enemigca emide icofwe i-diagonally, ngelixa isondo lalibhokisi ebhokisini ngaphambili. Kuwo wonke umsebenzi wakhe uChanel wahoya kakhulu ukusikwa kwemikhono yakhe, eqinisekisa ukuba bayamvumela lowo uyinxibayo ukuba ahambe ngokulula ngaphandle kokugqwetha imigca yengubo. Ngokuwa kwe-1929 iimpahla zakhe zemidlalo zazisencinci kodwa zinde, ngeehemline ezifikelela ngaphantsi kwethole.
Ungayisusa njani ikhandlela kwi-jar
Ingubo encinci eMnyama
U-Chanel wayeyile iilokhwe ezimnyama kwangoko nge-1913, xa wayesenza ilokhwe emnyama yevelvet enekhola emhlophe ye-Suzanne Orlandi. Ngo-Epreli 1919 iBritane Vogue uxele ukuba 'u-Chanel uthathela ingqalelo ukunqongophala kweemoto kunye nobunzima ngokubanzi bokuhlala eParis ngoku ngokunxiba kwakhe ngokungathandabuzekiyo iilokhwe ezimnyama zangokuhlwa' (iphepha 48). Kodwa kwakungekho eMelika Vogue (1 Okthobha 1926) uchaze a isitayile sobukhwenkwe Isinxibo semihla emnyama njengo 'The Chanel' Ford '-ifrock eza kunxitywa lihlabathi liphela' (p. 69) ukuba ilokhwe encinci emnyama yathatha umhlaba wefashoni ngoqhwithela. Kwaye nangona ukusetyenziswa komnyama kwifashoni kunembali ende, uChanel waziwa njengesiqalo sayo ukusukela oko.
Indleko yomdlalo weqonga
Iqonga yayingumboniso obalaseleyo wabayili befashoni ngekhulu leshumi elinesithoba nasekuqaleni kwamashumi amabini eminyaka. U-Chanel wayehlala ehamba kwizangqa zobugcisa, kwaye wayehlala exhasa umsebenzi wabahlobo bakhe ngokwezezimali nangokusebenza ngokubambisana nabo. Ngo-1922 wayila isinxibo sohlobo lwamaGrike ngoboya oburhabaxa ukuze uJean Cocteau alungelelanise uSophocles's Antigone; Uyilo lubonakalisiwe ngesiFrentshi Vogue (1 Februwari 1923). Kunyaka olandelayo wayenxibe abadanisi beebhaltshi benxiba iimpahla zokuhlamba iimpahla kunye nemidlalo iimpahla ezifanayo nezo zibonwe kwingqokelela yakhe yefashoni kwimveliso yeli xesha Uloliwe ohlaza okwesibhakabhaka (Ngo-1924). Kwaye ngo-1926 abadlali e Cocteau Orpheus Babenxibe iintloko ezinzwaneni kwiifashoni zakutshanje zikaChanel.
Nezacholo
U-Chanel wayekholelwa ukuba indima yobucwebe yayikukuhombisa i-ensemble kunokuba abonise ubutyebi, kwaye wacela umngeni kwindibano ngokunxiba iimfumba zobucwebe, zihlala zixabisekile, emini-nditsho nokuhamba ngomkhumbi-ngelixa ngokuhlwa ngamanye amaxesha wayenganxibi zambatho konke konke. Imilo evulekileyo, esikiweyo ethe tye yeemfashini zikaChanel kunye nokusetyenziswa kwakhe kwamalaphu amaninzi acocekileyo kubonelele ngefoyile efanelekileyo yokuhombisa ubucwebe bempahla awayeyizisile kwii-1920s zokuqala. Ukungabi nawo nawuphi na umnqweno wokuphindaphinda izinto ezixabisekileyo, uyilo lukaChanel, olwenziwe kuqala nguMaison Gripoix, ngokuchaseneyo nendalo ekusebenziseni kwabo umbala kunye nobukhulu ngenkalipho. Ngomnyaka we-1924 wavula ivenkile yakhe yezobucwebe, eyayilawulwa yi-comte Étienne de Beaumont. I-Beaumont yenzele amatyathanga amade ngamatye anemibala kunye neependenti ezimile okomnqamlezo ezaba yiklasikhi yendlu yakhe. U-Chanel wayeyithanda iminqamlezo yase-Byzantine, kwaye wayephefumlelwe ngamaqhosha, amatyathanga, kunye neentsimbi zempahla yasemkhosini.
Ieperile zakhe zobuxoki ezigqithisileyo, ezinxitywe kwimitya emininzi, zaba yimpumelelo kwangoko. Ngo-1926 uChanel wenza i-vogue yamacici angahambelaniyo ngokunxiba iperile emnyama kwindlebe enye kunye nomhlophe kwelinye. Ngo-1928 wazisa ngedayimani enamatye anqabileyo kwaye ngo-1929 wanikela ngeentsimbi zomqala 'ezibomvu, eziluhlaza, nezityheli, kunye namaso anemibala edityaniswe namatyathanga enziwe ngomthi.
Iifashoni ze1920s kamva
Ngasekupheleni kweminyaka ye-1920 imfashini kaChanel yayihonjisiwe yoyilo lwejometri. Ukunxiba iimpahla zemini wayesebenzisa imitya kunye nokutshekishwa kunye neepateni eziphefumlelwe yi-Fair Isle knitwear; ngorhatya uninzi lweempahla zakhe zelace ezimnyama zazidityaniswa nemitya yentsimbi, eyimfakamfele, okanye yentsimbi.
Ekuphakameni kodumo lwakhe kunye nemfuno ye-couture yaseParis encotsheni yayo, u-Chanel waqesha phakathi kwabasebenzi abangamawaka amabini anamawaka amathathu embindini ukuya ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1920. Wayesithi, nangona kunjalo, abe ngumsebenzi onzima kwaye ahlawule umvuzo omncinci. Ngo-1927 wavula indlu yakhe eLondon. IBritane Vogue Yakhankanya ekuqaleni kukaJuni 1927 ukuba, ngelixa ukukhulelwa kunye nokuziva kwengqokelela yangoku yeChanel yayisisiFrentshi, umyili wayilungelelanisa nobomi baseLondon. Kumdyarho weRoyal Ascot wanikezela ngengubo enemikhono emide enemikhono emfutshane, wazisa enkundleni, isinxibo esimhlophe esimhlophe kunye noololiwe esikwe ngesiketi esinye, esincediswa yintloko elula esekwe kwiintsiba zeNkosana yaseWales. NgoSeptemba 1929 Vogue ubhale wathi, 'Xa u-Chanel, umxhasi welokhwe ethe nkqo, ye-chemise kunye ne-silhouette yamakhwenkwe, esebenzisa amachaphaza amancinci, aqhwethayo kwiidyasi zakhe zoboya kunye nomtya ophakamileyo wesinqe kunye neeruffles ezininzi kwisinxibo sangokuhlwa, unokuqiniseka ukuba umntu obhinqileyo Imowudi yinyani ayisiyonto intle '(iphepha 35).
31 eRue Cambon namhlanje
Ngokuhambelana nobuhle befashoni yakhe yale mihla, uChanel ufake izipili zegilasi kumabala akhe e-couture eParis malunga nowe-1928. Ezi zibuko zeza nethuba lokumvumela ukuba ahlale ngaphandle kwamehlo abukele imiboniso yakhe. Ngokuchasene ngokupheleleyo nesalon, igumbi lakhe labucala kumgangatho wesithathu we-31, i-rue Cambon yayintle kwaye intle. Ngoku igcinwe ngononophelo, ihonjiswe ngezikrini zeCromandel, ifanitshala yaseLouis XIV, izibuko zaseVenetian, imifanekiso eqingqiweyo emnyama, kunye nekristale kunye neekristale zeamethiste. Xa uyila iimpahla, uChanel wayeza kunciphisa izinto ezingabalulekanga ngenxa yokuthuthuzela kwalowo uzinxibileyo; xa uyila izinto zangaphakathi zasekhaya, kwelinye icala, wayekholelwa ukuba ukungqubana yinto eyimfuneko- kubalulekile ukuba ungqongwe zizinto ezifunekayo nezithandwayo.
Iminyaka yoo-1930
Iifashoni zakuqala ze-1930
Nangona ishishini likaChanel lisenokuba latsala nzima ngexesha loxinzelelo-kuthiwa wehlise amaxabiso akhe ngo-1932-abasebenzi bakhe bonyuka baya kufikelela kumawaka amane abasebenzi ngo-1935. Abathengisi bakaChanel kunye nabathungi bakhe baqalisa ugwayimbo ngoJuni 1936 bekhalazela umvuzo wabo kunye neemeko zokusebenza. Ngo-Epreli 1936 abantu baseFrance bavota kurhulumente wobumbano wamaphiko wasekhohlo owawukhokelwa nguLeon Blum, owalandelwa lutyando oluninzi kubandakanya nabasebenzi baseChanel. U-Chanel wenqabile ukuphumeza isiVumelwano se-Matignon, esazisa ukunyuswa kwemivuzo nge-7 ukuya kwi-15 leepesenti, ilungelo lothethathethwano ngokudibeneyo kunye nokudibanisa, iveki yeeyure ezingama-40 kunye neveki ezi-2 ezihlawulelwayo zonyaka. Endaweni yoko wagxotha abantu ababhinqileyo abangama-300 abangavumiyo ukushiya esi sakhiwo kwaye kamva, ukuze avelise ingqokelela yakhe elandelayo, wavuma ukwazisa intsebenziswano yabasebenzi ekuqondeni ukuba uyayilawula (Madsen, p. 216).
Ukusuka kwii-hemlines zika-1930 zikaChanel zaya zisiba nde kwaye zakhula kancinci; wagxininisa esinqeni sakhe, kwaye iibhatyi zakhe zazineebhotile ezithambileyo. Izaphetha zaziza kuba ngumqondiso wokutyikitya, osetyenziswa njengeenkcukacha zokuhombisa emagxeni nakwiziketi zeengubo zakhe. Iinqaba zikaCravat zanikezela ngempahla yabasetyhini kwiiblawuzi zakhe, kwaza kongezwa ii-frill ezimhlophe ezijikeleze iikhola kunye neekhafu zeesuti zakhe ezimnyama kunye neelokhwe. Ukusukela ngo-1934 u-Chanel wasebenzisa amalaphu e-American elasticized made with a brand of varn with a latex core called Lastex kwiiqoqo zakhe zokwenza iimpahla ezinomhlaba ofana ne-crepe, kwaye wayehlala ezidibanisa nejezi.
Ngexesha le-1930s wasungula umgca wakhe wezithambiso kwaye wazisa isiqhumiso esitsha esibizwa ngokuba yiGlamour. Uye wanyusa ingeniso yakhe ngokuxhasa iimveliso zabanye abavelisi kunye nokuyila ezinye iinkampani. Ngomnyaka we-1931 wakhuthaza ii-cottons zika-Ferguson Brothers-ingqokelela yakhe yasentwasahlobo yayiquka iingubo zangokuhlwa zomqhaphu-kwaye wayila iimpahla ezinithiweyo ze-Ellaness kunye neebhatyi zemvula zikaDavid Mosley noonyana. Ukwafumene i-2 yezigidi zeedola ngomsebenzi wakhe eHollywood ngaloo nyaka.
Isikrini kunye neSigaba
Xa i-hemlines yehla ngo-1929, ii-studio zeHollywood ezazibhanyabhanya zaphazamiseka, njengoko amawakawaka eefilimu zenziwa kwangoko. Endaweni yokuqhubeka nokulandela iifashoni zaseParis ngokukhoboka, isitudiyo esikhulu uSamuel Goldwyn wamema uChanel ukuba ayile iimpahla ngqo kwiinkwenkwezi zakhe ezingamakhosikazi, kubandakanya uGreta Garbo, uGloria Swanson, noMarlene Dietrich. I-Chanel, nangona kunjalo, ivelise uyilo lweemveliso ezintathu zeMetro-Goldwyn-Mayer: Iintsuku zePalmy (Ngo-1931), Ngokuhlwanje okanye ungaze (1931), kunye AmaGrike ayeneLizwi kubo (Ngo-1932). Uninzi lwabadlali beqonga benqabile ukuba isitayile sikaChanel sibekwe kubo, kwaye uyilo lwayo lwalungahoywa okanye lugxekwa ngenxa yokuba lwalungaphantsi kwesikrini.
EParis, uChanel uqhubeke nokuyila imidlalo eqhubela phambili, ebonelela ngeengubo zeCocteau's Umatshini ongapheliyo (1934) kunye Iiknights zetheyibhile ejikelezileyo kwaye U-Oedipus-Kumkani , zombini ezi zabonakala ngo-1937. Ukongeza, nangona wayengazithandi ezopolitiko ezisekhohlo, wazenzela iimpahla zefilimu egqibeleleyo kaJean Renoir EMarseille kwaye Imigaqo yoMdlalo , zaveliswa ngowe-1938.
Nezacholo
Ngo-1932 i-International Guild of Diamond Merchants yagunyazisa uChanel ukuba ayile ingqokelela yeedayimani ezibekwe kwiplatinam ebizwa ngokuba yi-Bijoux de Diamants. Emva kokuba eyile amatye anqabileyo ngexesha lobutyebi, u-Chanel ngoku uxele ukuba iidayimani zilutyalo-mali. Kunye nesithandwa sakhe sangoku, uPaul Iribe, wazisa umgca wobucwebe ngokusekwe kwimixholo yamaqhina, iinkwenkwezi kunye neentsiba. Ingqokelela yaboniswa ekhayeni lakhe eRue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré eParis.
Ngexesha le-1930s, uFulco di Santostefano della Cerda, duc di Verdura, waqala ukuyila ubucwebe beChanel. Wayemenzela amalaphu okoko ukusukela ngo-1927. Okona kubaluleke kakhulu, ngu-Verdura owayenguvulindlela wokuvuselela ubucwebe be-enamel: i-chunky, ibhaka yeesilili ezifakwe iminqamlezo emhlophe yaseMalta yaphumelela. UChristian Bérard naye wamenzela iziqwenga ngamanye amaxesha, kwaye uMaison Gripoix uqhubeke nokwenza uninzi loyilo-ngakumbi ezo zothando kunye neerococo-imvuselelo yezitayile. Ukusukela embindini ukuya kuthi xhaxhe ngeminyaka yoo-1930 ii-Chanel's bib Triangular heavy bibs zamatye anemibala kunye neengqekembe kunye nentambo yakhe yesilika yomqala eneenwele zamatye anemibala eqaqambileyo zabonisa iimpembelelo ezivela eIndiya nakuMzantsi-mpuma Asia.
Iifashoni ze1930s kamva
Izambatho zikaChanel zemini ziqhubekile ukubonakaliswa ngokulula, kodwa-mhlawumbi kuyothusa-ukuba uthathe inxaxheba kwitayile yovuselelo lwe-Victorian, ebonisa ii-cinch-waisted, ezigcwele-skirted, kunye neebhulukhwe ezixhasayo zangokuhlwa ezinxibe iiglavu zeleyisi ezinde kunye neentyatyambo izixhobo. Ngokugqityiweyo, ibhulukhwe enxitywe ngumhleli wefashoni u-Diana Vreeland ngo-1937-1938 yayiqulathe ibhatyi emnyama yesitayile se-bolero kunye nebhulukhwe esinqeni esigqunywe ngokupheleleyo. Isinyithi sentsimbi yee-sequins ezichaseneyo ne-chiffon yesilika ethambileyo kunye neblawuzi yeleyisi enentamo erhabaxa kwaye ibotshelelwe ngamaqhosha eeperile. Ukudityaniswa okumangalisayo kukaChanel omnyama nomhlophe okanye obomvu kuhlala kuhlala kuthandwa. Ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1930 ukunxiba kwakhe ngokuhlwa kwatyhila iimpembelelo ezivela kwimithombo yamaGypsy kunye nabalimi: izikethi ezikwi-taffetas enemibala, ngamanye amaxesha enemigca okanye etshekishwayo, kwaye inxitywe ngeebhulukhwe ezinemikhono ezimfakamfele.
Iminyaka Yemfazwe
U-Chanel wayivala indlu yakhe yefashoni ngexesha leMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi kodwa waqhubeka nokuthengisa iziqholo zakhe. Ngexesha lemfazwe wayehlala eParis kwihotele iRitz kunye nesithandwa sakhe saseJamani, igosa lomkhosi waseJamani ogama linguHans-Gunther von Dincklage. Xa iParis yakhululwa ngo-1944, u-Chanel wabaleka waya eSwitzerland kwaye akazange abuyele eRue Cambon phantse iminyaka elishumi.
ubudlelwane imibuzo ukubuza isoka lakho
Kwiminyaka yoo-1950
Iimfashini zee-1950s
U-Chanel waqala ukusebenza kwakhona eneminyaka engamashumi asixhenxe ngo-1953, ngokuyinxenye ukukhulisa ukuthengisa kwakhe iziqholo. Ifilosofi yakhe yefashoni ihlala ingatshintshanga: uphakamisa umsebenzi kunye nokuthuthuzela ngokunxiba kwaye wabhengeza injongo yakhe yokwenza abantu basetyhini babonakale bebahle kwaye bebatsha. Nge-5 kaFebruwari 1954 wazisa ingqokelela yakhe yokuqala yasemva kwemfazwe, umgca weesuti ezinganxitywanga kunye nelokhwe. Impendulo yeendaba ngokubanzi, nangona kunjalo, yayikukuba uChanel wayemdala kakhulu kwaye wayengadibani nemarike yanamhlanje, kwaye ziimodeli ezimbalwa kuphela ezithengisiweyo. Kwelinye icala, American Vogue (Nge-15 kaFebruwari 1954) wacinga 'inguquko enkulu' ebaluleke ngokwaneleyo ukuthethelela inqaku elinamaphepha amathathu anesiqingatha elinikezelwe kwimisebenzi yakhe nakwifilosofi yefashoni: 'Isinxibo asilunganga ukuba asihambi kakuhle. umsebenzi beka iipokotho ngokuchanekileyo ukuze zisetyenziswe, ungaze ucofe iqhosha ngaphandle komngxunya-weqhosha. Umkhono awulunganga ngaphandle kokuba ingalo ihamba ngokulula. Ubuhle kwiingubo kuthetha inkululeko yokuhamba ngokukhululekileyo '(American Vogue , iphe. 84).
Ngokwala maxesha amafomula awayemzisele impumelelo engaka ngaphambili kwikhondo lomsebenzi wakhe, u-Chanel waphumelela ekuzinziseni kwakhona njengomyili wefashoni yobume bamazwe aphesheya. Ngentwasahlobo-yehlobo 1955 wazisa ijezi yesuti engwevu ebandakanya ibhatyi ethambileyo ethambileyo neepokotho kunye nesiketi esigcwele ibhokisi, enxibe iblawuzi emhlophe ebotshiweyo. Iisuti zejezi yomkhosi wamanzi zazineebhatyi zeblazer zohlobo lwesikolo kwaye zazibhinqwe ngombala omhlophe okanye zinxitywe ngezinxibo ezinithiweyo ezinemigca ye-navy nomhlophe. Amaqhosha ayehlala egutyungelwe kumalaphu ahambelana nesuti, kwaye ngamanye amaxesha asikwe ngocoselelo ngelaphu elahlukileyo elalisetyenziselwa ukolula iipokotho kunye nokwenza ihempe ezinamathelisiweyo. Amanye amaqhosha abunjwe ngobhedu olungqindilili, ngamanye amaxesha enentloko yengonyama-uphawu lokuzalwa lukaChanel yayinguLeo-okanye yenziwe ngobuthathaka obucekeceke ngakumbi, mhlawumbi ngombala osikiweyo weentyatyambo.
Ngomnyaka we-1957 uChanel wazisa ii-jackets zakhe zohlobo lweebhatyi. Ngexesha lasebusika lowe-1957-1958 iisuti zakhe zazinokugoqwa okusongelayo okuhla ezantsi kwicala lesiketi kwaye kufihlwe ipokotho enxibe ibhulukhwe. Ngokungaqhelekanga, wabonisa umnqwazi ngayo yonke imodeli-ezi yayizizihlangu zohlobo lwasesikhephe ezazenziwe kumalaphu athambileyo ahambelana nezo benxibe ngazo. Njengesiqhelo, wanikela ingqalelo enkulu kulungelelwaniso lweebhatyi kunye neesuti zakhe: ngeli xesha lonyaka, iinwele zenkamela zazifakwe i-guanaco ebomvu, igrey tweed enomhlophe, kunye ne-velor ebomvu enoboya beebhokhwe ezingwevu. Iidyasi zakhe zazisikwe ngendlela efanayo neebhatyi zakhe zesuti, zandiswa nje zaya kwinqanaba elifanayo nelomphetho wesiketi.
Iinqwelo zeChanel zala maxesha kwi-nubby wools, i-tweed, okanye amalaphu ejersey eneepokotho zazo ezininzi ezisebenzayo, ezidityaniswe ngamatyathanga e-gilt kunye neeperile zobuxoki; iibhegi zakhe ezahlukileyo; kunye nezihlangu zakhe zasemlanjeni ezineminqwazi yeenzwane eyahlukileyo, zaba yeyona nto iphambili kubantu abafumileyo. Kwaye njengangaphambili, uyilo lwayo lwalukhutshelwa ngokubanzi kwimarike enkulu: inkampani ithengise iithayilethi kwivenkile yaseBritane iWallis ukuze ikwazi ukuvelisa ngokufanelekileyo uyilo lukaChanel.
Ngorhatya uChanel wanikela ngokwahluka kweesuti zakhe kwizinto ezinqabileyo ezinje nge-brocade echetywe ngegolide, kwaye wahlala ethembekile kuthando lwakhe lweentambo zombala omnyama nomhlophe. Ingubo ye-cocktail evela kwintwasahlobo-ehlotyeni ka-1958 ingqokelela yayinebhodi yesilika enombala omhlophe kunye nomhlophe emhlophe enesaphetha esikhulu entanyeni kunye nesiketi esigcweleyo se-organdy emhlophe, ebotshwe emiphethweni ngelaphu elinemigca efanayo.
Ngentwasahlobo-ihlobo 1959 wazisa ilokhwe emnyama yeleyisi, wayitshonisa ezantsi ngasemva kwaye wabumba isinqe, esasifakwe iribhoni emnyama kwaye sagqobhoza kwisiketi esigcweleyo; yayifikeleleka ngetyathanga elide kunye neeperile ezidibeneyo kunye namatye anqabileyo, anemibala. Ngelo xesha ingqokelela yamodareyithwa ngabahlobo abayili-abanesitayile abasetyhini abancinci ababeqhele ukunxiba iimpahla zakhe.
Iziqholo kunye nezixhobo
Ngo-1954 uChanel wazisa ivumba lendoda, thetha uMongameli. Kwakuloo nyaka uPierre noPaul Wertheimer, ababesele bengabanini beParfums Chanel, bathenga ishishini lakhe lonke, kwaye lahlala kusapho lwaseWertheimer ekuqaleni kweminyaka yoo-2000.
Ngo-1955 u-Chanel wazisa iibhegi ezineebhanti ezenziwe ngemixwayo yesikhumba efakelwe ngemixokelelwane eqhotyoshelweyo enamakhonkco acabaleleyo, afana nalawo ayesetyenziselwa ukuthoba iibhatyi zakhe. Iingxowa zazinikezelwa ngesikhumba okanye ijezi kwaye ekuqaleni zazifumaneka nge-beige, navy, brown, kunye nomnyama, zifakwe i-grosgrain ebomvu okanye isikhumba-u-Chanel wakhetha umbala okhanyayo wezinto zangaphakathi ukunceda abasetyhini ukufumana izinto ezincinci ezingxoweni zabo. Ukuhlaziywa kwesizini nganye, iibhegi ezizodwa zikaChanel zisengabathengisi abaphambili kwii-2000s zakuqala.
Ngeminyaka yoo-1960
UJackie Kennedy unxibe uChanel
Ngo-1960 iifashoni zikaChanel zazingasekho ngaphambili kwesitayile. Wayeyenyanya i-miniskirt, ekholelwa ukuba amadolo omfazi ahlala efihliwe. Kodwa nangona kunjalo uqhubekile ngokunxiba abathengi abathembekileyo iisuti ezaziphinde zasebenza ngobuqili ngexesha ngalinye. Omnye wabathengi bakhe abakumgangatho ophezulu kunye nesitayile ngeli xesha yayinguJacqueline Kennedy.
I-maison Chanel inokubizwa ngokuba yi'Jersey House ', yendalo kaMlle. I-Chanel kudala kwaye ijezi iya kuba nde. Ukuphela kwexesha, umgangatho oqinileyo we-velvet yomqhaphu usetyenzisiwe nguChanel kwiingubo kunye neefraki ezithile. (IBritish Vogue, ekuqaleni kuka-Okthobha u-1917, iphe. 30).
Isuti eyayinxitywa nguChanel phakathi kwiminyaka yoo-1960 (imodeli 37750) yathengwa eLondon eVictoria naseAlbert Museum. Inebhatyi eneekota ezintathu kunye nelokhwe eyenziwe ngomnyama omnyama ofikelela emazantsi edolo, ufakelwe umnqwazi omnyama wesilika. Ikhola emhlophe ye-Pristine kunye neekhafu zizinto ezihambelana nebhatyi-abanye abathengi bakhalaza ngelithi oku kuchukunyiswa kuphele kudala ngaphambi kwebhatyi uqobo. Ukucoceka, ukungavathiswanga, i-monochrome, kunye nokusebenza ngokupheleleyo, isuti ine-echoes yeyunifom yesikolo.
Ngo-1962 uChanel waphinda wamenywa ukuba ayile i-cinema, ngeli xesha enxibe uRomy Schneider kwifilimu kaLuchino Visconti IBoccaccio '70 kunye noDelphine Seyrig kwifilimu ka-Alain Resnais Kunyaka ophelileyo eMarienbad . Ngo-1969 uChanel ngokwakhe waba sisihloko somculo obanzi obizwa ngokuba Ikhokhonathi , Ibhalwe ngu-Alan Jay Lerner. Ngemvume kaChanel, indima yendima eyadlalwa nguKhatharine Hepburn.
U-Chanel wasweleka nge-10 kuJanuwari 1971 phakathi kokulungiselela ingqokelela yakhe yasentwasahlobo-yehlobo ngo-1971. Iimpahla zakhe zobuqu kunye nezacholo zathengiswa kwifandesi eLondon ngoDisemba 1978.
Iposti
Emva kokusweleka kukaChanel, uGaston Berthelot wonyulwa ukuba ayile iimpahla zakudala kwisithethe seChanel phakathi kowe-1971 nowe-1973. Isiqholo esinguNombolo 19, esathiywa emva komhla wokuzalwa kukaChanel, saqaliswa ngo-1970. Ukusukela ngo-1974 uJean Cazaubon noYvonne Dudel bayila umgca wokuvala; Ngo-1978 uluhlu lokulungiselela ukunxiba lwayilwa nguPhilippe Guibourgé; kwaye ngo-1980 uRamon Esparza wajoyina iqela le-couture. Kodwa bekungekho kude kube ngo-1983, xa uKarl Lagerfeld wonyulwa njengomyili oyintloko, ukuba iNdlu kaChanel yaphinda yenza imixholo yefashoni: ihlala iyeyona nto iphambili ekunqwenelekeni kwabathengi bayo yonke iminyaka kwiminyaka yoo-2000.
Ukusukela ekutyunjweni kwakhe, uLagerfeld uqhubekile nokubhekisa kwisitayile seChanel, ngamanye amaxesha ebonelela ngotoliko lwakudala kwaye ngamanye amaxesha esenza ingxelo ehlekisayo kunye nengacacanga. Ekugqibeleni, uye wayiphuhlisa ilebheli ukuyenza ukuba ifaneleke kwintengiso yanamhlanje. Njengomsunguli wayo, utsala iimpahla zemidlalo ngenkuthazo: ukuntywila ngamatye kunye nokuhamba ngebhayisikile kukhuthaza ingqokelela yakhe yokuwa-ebusika ngo-1990-1991; izihlangu zoqeqesho ezinophawu olwahlukileyo lwe-CC logo zaboniswa ekwindla-ebusika ngo-1993-1994; Izitayile zaselwandle zaboniswa entwasahlobo-ehlotyeni 1994; Izitayile ze-skiwear zaboniswa ekwindla-ebusika ngo-2003-2004. Ngelixa u-Chanel ejonge kwisinxibo somntu osebenzayo, uLager-feld ufumana izimvo zakhe kuluntu lwangoku. Uveze ijean ye-PVC yolusu, ii-lace-up bustiers, iikhola zinja, kunye neebhatyi zemvula zeplastikhi (ekwindla-ebusika ngo-1991-1992); Iibhantshi zesikhumba zebiker, ibhulukhwe kunye neebhutsi (ekwindla-ebusika ngo-1992-1993 nasekwindla-ebusika 2002-2003); Izitayile eziphefumlelweyo ze-B-Boy-and Ragga (entwasahlobo-ehlotyeni 1994); kunye ne-eclectic 'rock chic' (ekwindla-ebusika 2003-2004). Isuti ye-tweed iyaqhubeka nokuba ngoyena ndoqo wengqokelela, ukwanelisa incasa yeklasikhi ngezitayile zekhadidi kunye nabathengi abancinci abanomdla abaneetop top bra kunye ne-mini-miniskirts. Isuti yesinxibo yekhati yakudala ikwanikezelwe kwilaphu le-terry, ngelixa iibhatyi zedenim zichetyiwe ziintyatyambo zikaChanel ozithandayo ze-camellia (zombini ngehlobo-lasehlotyeni ngo-1991). Ubucwebe besinxibo busetyenziswa ngobuninzi, kwaye ilokhwe encinci emnyama isahambelana ngokungafaniyo negama likaChanel.
Ukuqinisekisa ukusinda kwezakhono zobugcisa ezihlaziyiweyo zeshishini lokucoca, iNdlu kaChanel yathenga iindibano zocweyo ezintlanu ngo-2002: umhombisi ophezulu uFrançois Lesage, ingcibi yezihlangu uRaymond Massaro, umgwebi wamatye uManison Michel, ingcali yeentsiba uAndré Lemarié, kunye ezona zixhobo zokuhombisa iimpahla.
Chanel iziqholo zihlala zithengisa kakhulu. Ukusukela oko waswelekayo umsunguli, inkampani isungule uCristalle (1974), Coco (1984), No. 5 Eau de Parfum (1986), Allure (1996), Coco Mademoiselle (2001), kunye Chance (2002) yabasetyhini kunye noAntaeus pour Homme (1981), Egoïste (1990), Platinum Egoïste (1993), kunye Allure Homme (1999) yamadoda.
Bona kwakho Ubucwebe beCostume; Izikhwama kunye nePurses; UKarl Lagerfeld; Ilokhwe encinci emnyama ; Ifashoni yaseParis; Amafutha; UDiana Vreeland.
Uluhlu lweencwadi
UCharles-Roux, uEdmonde. Chanel kunye neLizwe lakhe. ILondon: Weidenfeld kunye noNicolson, 1979. Uboniswe kakhulu ngombala omnyama nomhlophe, isicatshulwa esiqhelekileyo esigubungela impumelelo enkulu yoyilo lukaChanel kunye nobomi bakhe babucala kunye nentlalo.
-. Chanel. ILondon: UCollins Harvill, 1989.
de la Haye, Amy, kunye noShelley Tobin. Chanel: ICouturière eMsebenzini. ILondon: V kunye noPapasho, 1994. Uhlalutyo olucokisekileyo loyilo lweChanel kunye nokusebenza kokuziqhelanisa. Imibala ebonakalisiweyo ngombala, kubandakanya neempahla ezininzi zemyuziyam ngokweenkcukacha.
IMadsen, iAxel. UCoco Chanel: I-Biography. London: Bloomsbury, 1990. Iakhawunti ebanzi ngobomi bukaChanel.
Morand, Paul. Umtsalane weChanel. ILondon: Herman, 1976. Ukuqonda ngobomi bukaChanel obhalwe ngumbhali ongumhlobo.
UMauriès, uPatrick. Ubucwebe bukaCHANEL. ILondon: iThames kunye neHudson, Inc., ngo-1993.
