Ekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1950, inani elincinci labadanisi abamnyama abasetyhini kunye neemvumi zejazz zaqhekeka kunye nemikhwa yabantu abaNtsundu kwaye banxiba iinwele ezingalulwanga. Iinwele abazinxibileyo zazingenagama kwaye xa beqwalaselwa ngumatshini omnyama, kwakudla ngokubhekiswa kubo njengokunxiba iinwele 'ezisikiweyo.' Aba badanisi kunye neemvumi babenovelwano okanye babandakanyeka kwimibutho yamalungelo oluntu kwaye baziva ngathi iinwele ezingavalwanga zivakalisa iimvakalelo zabo zekratshi lobuhlanga. Malunga no-1960, abafundi ababenamalungelo oluntu ababekhuthaza amalungelo abafundi kwiYunivesithi yaseHoward nakwezinye iikholeji ezimnyama ngokwembali bayeka ukuzilungisa iinwele, zachetywa, kwaye babethwa ngabantu ababefunda nabo. Ixesha elingaphezulu isitayile esivaliweyo sikhule saba yimilo erhangqi enkulu, enxitywa ngabo bobabini abantu besini, kwaye ifezekisiwe ngokunyusa iinwele ezinde ezingalulwanga ngaphandle ngekama ebanzi enamazinyo eyaziwa ngokuba kukhetho lweAfro. Kwincopho yokuthandwa kwayo ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yama-1960 nakwiminyaka yoo-1970 ii-Afro zazibonisa ukuba intshukumo emnyama. Ngaloo minyaka isitayile sasibonisa ukubhiyozelwa kobuhle obumnyama kunye nokwaliwa kwemigangatho yobuhle ye-Eurocentric. Ikwadala imeko yokuqheleka phakathi kwabayinxibayo ababona isimbo njengophawu lomntu owayezimisele ukuthatha ngokuchaseneyo nxamnye nokungabikho kokusesikweni ngokobuhlanga. Njengokuba i-Afro isanda ekuthandeni umbutho wayo kunye nemibutho yabantsundu kwezopolitiko buthathaka amandla ayo okunxibelelana nokuzibophelela kwezopolitiko kwabo bayinxibileyo.
Imigaqo esele ikho
Ngoo-1950 abafazi abamnyama kwakulindeleke ukuba balungise iinwele zabo. Iinwele ezingamiswanga ezingamabhinqa ezimnyama zabonisa ukwaliwa ngokupheleleyo kwemilinganiselo yoluntu olumnyama. Abafazi abamnyama bazolula iinwele zabo ngokuzinxiba nge-pomade yokukhusela kunye nokuzikama kunye nekama yentsimbi eshushu. Obu buchule butshintshe ii-curls ezixineneyo zeenwele zase-Afrika zase-Melika zaba ziinwele ezithe nkqo ngokupheleleyo nge-sheled pomaded. Iinwele ezithe nkqo zahlala ziqondile kude kube kukudibana namanzi. Abasetyhini abamnyama benza yonke imizamo yokwandisa ixesha phakathi kokuchukumisa. Babezikhusela iinwele zabo emvuleni, bengayi kuqubha, kwaye babehlamba iinwele zabo ngokukhawuleza ngaphambi kokuba bazilungise kwakhona. Ukuba umfazi wayengakwazi ukuzilungisa iinwele zakhe, wayezigquma ngesikhafu.
Amanqaku afanelekileyo- Imbali yeeWigs
- Iinwele kunye neFashoni
- Isinxibo saseMelika
Itekhnoloji yokulungisa iinwele isebenze kwimikhwa yesini exhaphakileyo echaza iinwele ezinde ezomeleleyo njengebhinqa. Ngelixa ukolulwa kweenwele kungakwazanga ukuzandisa iinwele kwaye kunokuba negalelo ekwahlukaneni, yaguqula iinwele ezijijelwe ngokuqinileyo zaba ziinwele ezithe nkqo ezinokubekwa kumaza. Iinwele ezijijelweyo zazingafunwa 'njengenapkeni' okanye 'iinwele ezimbi,' ngelixa iinwele ezithe nkqo zazinconywa 'njengeenwele ezilungileyo.' Ukuxhaswa kwe-Eurocentric kwezi zigwebo zabahlali abantsundu kukhokelele abaninzi ukuba babonakalise umkhuba wokulungiswa kweenwele njengelinge lokulingisa abamhlophe. Abagxeki benkcubeko baphikise ngokuthi ukuphakama kweenwele kubonisa okungaphezulu kokulinganisa abelungu. Abafazi abantsundu bazilingisela ngokwabanye abafazi abamnyama abazilungisa iinwele zabo ukuze bazibonise njengeedolophu, ezala maxesha, kwaye bezilungise kakuhle.
Kwixesha lasemva kweMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi, xa uninzi lwabasetyhini abamnyama bezolula iinwele zabo, uninzi lwamadoda amnyama ayenxiba iinwele ezimfutshane ezingalungiswanga. Inwele eyoluliweyo eyindoda eyayisaziwa njenge-conk yayibonakala kakhulu kuba yayiyindlela eyayithandwa ngabantu abaninzi abamnyama. I-conk, nangona kunjalo, yayiyindlela evukelayo enxulunyaniswa nabakhenkethi kunye namadoda akwinkqubo yolwaphulo-mthetho. Amadoda amnyama aqhelekileyo kunye nabesilisa abanomnqweno ophakathi abagcina iinwele zabo zimfutshane kwaye abazilungisi.
Imvelaphi yeAfro
Ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1950 nakwiminyaka yoo-1960, ukwaziswa kwamazwe amatsha asandula ukuzimela e-Afrika kunye noloyiso kunye nokusilela kumzabalazo wamalungelo oluntu kukhuthaze iimvakalelo zethemba kunye nomsindo, kunye nokuhlolwa kwesazisi kubantu abancinci baseMelika. I-Afro yavela kwimo yezopolitiko kunye neemvakalelo. Uhlobo olwalufanele ukwaliwa ngokubanzi kwezobugcisa kodwa okona kubaluleke kakhulu, lwalubonisa ukungathobeli imigaqo yobuhlanga, ukwaliwa kweendibano zabantu abakumgangatho ophakathi, kunye nokuzingca ngobuhle obumnyama. Iinwele ezingafakwanga ze-Afro ngaxeshanye yayiyindlela yokubhiyozela inkcubeko kunye nomzimba ngokwahlukileyo kohlanga kunye nokwala iindlela ezinxulumene nokulingiswa kwabamhlophe.
Abadanisi, iimvumi zomculo wejezi kunye nezomculo, kunye nabafundi baseyunivesithi banokuba bonwabele inkululeko enkulu yokuchasana nezimbo eziqhelekileyo kunabafazi abaqhelekileyo abasebenzayo kwaye babengabokuqala ukunxiba izitayile ezingacacanga. Ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1950 abadanisi abantsundu abantsundu ababediniwe kukuqhubeka nokuchukumisa iinwele ezithe nkqo ukuba umbilo ubuyile kinkiness, bagqiba kwelokuba banxibe iinwele ezimfutshane ezingafakwanga. URuth Beckford, owayedlala noKatherine Dunham, ukhumbula indlela awadideka ngayo xa wayenxibe iinwele ezimfutshane ezingacacanga. Abaphambukeli bamnika unyango ukuze ancede iinwele zakhe zikhule kwaye umfundi oselula wabuza u-Miss Beckford ukuba uyindoda.
Malunga ne-1960, kwizangqa ezisebenzayo kwezopolitiko kwiikholeji zembali ezimnyama nakwimibutho yokuhamba kwamalungelo oluntu, abambalwa abasetyhini abamnyama bamkela iinwele zendalo. Kwangowe-1961 iimvumi ze-jazz u-Abbey Lincoln, Melba Liston, Miriam Makeba, Nina Simone kunye nemvumi yomculo u-Odetta babedlala benxibe iinwele ezimfutshane ezingafakwanga. Nangona aba bafazi besaziwa ikakhulu njengabaculi, ukuzibophelela kwezopolitiko kwakubalulekile emsebenzini wabo. Bacula iingoma ezibiza ubulungisa bobuhlanga kwaye badlala kwiindibano zentshukumo yamalungelo oluntu kunye nabaxhasi bemali. Ngo-1962 nango-1963
Ungayinyanga njani iparvo ekhaya
U-Abbey uLincoln wahlangana noGrandassa, iqela leemodeli kunye nabakhenkethi ababonisa imfashini yabo ukuba baxhase ikhonkco phakathi kokuzingca kwabantu abamnyama kunye nento esele iqalile ukubizwa ngokwahlukeneyo 'au naturel,' 'au naturelle,' okanye 'yendalo'. Xa oonondaba abaqhelekileyo abamnyama babethathela ingqalelo iinwele ezingakhanyiswanga, intatheli ngokubanzi zazigxininisa ukuba abo banxibe izimbo ze 'au naturelle' bancama isibheno sabo sesini kwezopolitiko zabo. Babengekaziboni iinwele ezingaxinaniswanga zintle.
uyenza njani incwadi smash
Ukuphendula kwangoko
Nangona befumene inkxaso yesitayela phakathi kwamanye ama-activist, abafazi bokuqala ababenxibe izitayela ezingagqitywanga bafumana ukuthuka, ukugculelwa, kunye nokuhlambalaza ngenxa yokugqoka izitayela ezibonwa njengokunyaniseka kwemigangatho yoluntu. Uninzi lwaba bafazi babenengxabano nabadala babo ababecinga ngokuzoluka kweenwele njengokuzilungisa kakuhle. Okumangalisayo kukuba, abafundi abambalwa ababhinqileyo ababhinqileyo ababekwa bodwa kwiikholeji zabamhlophe ikakhulu babefumana ulwamkelo kubantu abamhlophe ababengaqhelananga nemikhwa yabahlali abamnyama. Abamhlophe abaqhelekileyo, nangona kunjalo, babona isitayile njengesothusayo ngendlela engaqhelekanga kwaye abanye abaqeshi bayayinqanda iAfros emsebenzini. Njengokuba uninzi lwabasetyhini luyekile ukulungelelanisa iinwele, indalo yaba sisitayile esaziwayo kunye nesihloko esiqhelekileyo sengxoxo kwishicilelo elimnyama. Inani elandayo labasetyhini layeka ukuzilungisa iinwele zabo njengoko lo mkhuba waba luphawu lwehlazo lobuhlanga. Kwindibano yowe-1966, inkokheli emnyama yaseStokely Carmichael yadibanisa isitayile, ezopolitiko kunye nokuzithanda xa yaxelela isihlwele: 'Kufuneka siyeke ukuba neentloni ngokuba mnyama. Impumlo ebanzi, imilebe eshinyeneyo, neenwele zenapile zezethu kwaye siza kuyibiza intle nokuba bayayithanda okanye abayithandi. Asiyi kuphinda siqhotse iinwele zethu '(Bracey, Meier, noRudwick 1970, iphe. 472). Ibinzana elithi 'umnyama umhle' lalikho kuyo yonke indawo kwaye lishwankathela inqanaba elitsha lobuhle elixabise ubuhle besikhumba esimdaka ngombala kunye neenwele ezomeleleyo zeenwele ezingamiselwanga.
Inani elandayo lamatshantliziyo lamkela iinwele kwaye amajelo eendaba asasaza imifanekiso yawo. Ngo-1966 i-Afro yayinxulunyaniswe ngokuqinileyo nomzabalazo wezopolitiko. Abasetyhini ababenxibe iinwele ezingavalwanga banokuziva ukuba iinwele zabo zibachaza kunye nentshukumo yamandla amnyama avelayo. Imifanekiso kamabonakude yamalungu eQela eliNtsundu enxibe iibhatyi ezimnyama zesikhumba, iibharethi ezimnyama, iiglasi zelanga kunye neAfros ziqikelele ukubonakaliswa kobungqingqwa obumnyama. Amanye amadoda kunye nabafazi abaninzi baqala ukukhulisa iAfros enkulu. Ekugqibeleni ziinwele ezazichetyiwe zaziyimilo engqukuva enkulu ezazibizwa ngokuba ziiAfro, ngelixa ezinye iinwele ezingacinywanga zazibizwa ngokuba zii-naturals.
Ukuthandwa
Njengamanani amakhulu amadoda nabafazi abamnyama abanxiba i-Afro, indawo yokusebenzela kunye neengxabano zobuhlanga zancipha. Ngo-1968 i-cigarettes yaseKent kunye nePepsi-cola bavelisa iintengiso eziprintiweyo ezinabafazi abaneAfros enkulu. Ukuhonjiswa kwe-Afro ekhethwe ngamanqatha amnyama amnyama okanye izibambo zaseAfrika yayizinto ezithandwayo zefashoni. Ngelixa kuqhubeka ukuthengisa iimveliso ezindala zokulungisa iinwele, abavelisi bemveliso yokunyamekela iinwele abamnyama benza iimveliso ezintsha zokhathalelo lweAfro. Umbane 'wokukhupha ikama' udibanise isomisi esomileyo kunye nokukhethwa kweAfro yokwenza isitayile esikhulu seAfros. Abavelisi beewigi bazise iiwigi zeAfro. Nangona imvelaphi ye-Afro yayise-United States, uJohnson Products, umenzi wexesha elide weemveliso ezolula iinwele, wakhuthaza umgca wayo omtsha weemveliso zeAfro Sheen ngamagama esiSwahili athi 'abantu abalungileyo' kunomathotholo nakwipapasho zentengiso ezithi 'iWantu Wazuri sebenzisa iAfro Sheen. ' Ngo-1968 iAfro enkulu yayiyeyona nto ibalulekileyo kwisitayile sikaClarence Williams III, inkwenkwezi yomdlalo weqonga kamabonakude odumileyo, Iqela leMod . Ngowe-1969 iBritani Vogue wapapasha ifoto kaPatrick Lichfield kaMarsha Hunt, owayenqunu ngaphandle kweengalo namaqatha kunye nomjikelo wakhe omkhulu weAfro. Lo mfanekiso ubhiyozelwa ngokubanzi uhambelana nemodeli yefashoni evelayo ebonisa iimodeli ezimnyama ezinxulunyaniswa nabasasazi bendalo, uburhabaxa, okanye i-exotica.
Omnye onxibe iAfro enkulu yayilitshantliziyo kunye nomphengululi u-Angela Davis owayenxibe isimbo ngokuhambelana nezenzo zabanye abantu abamnyama kwezopolitiko. Xa, ngo-1970, wabekwa kuluhlu olwalufunwa kakhulu yi-FBI, umfanekiso wakhe wasasazwa kwilizwe jikelele. Ngexesha lakhe njengembacu neembanjwa waba ligorha kubafazi abaninzi abamnyama njengoko iphulo elibanzi lalisebenzela ukuba akhululwe. I-Afro enkulu yanyanzeleka ukuba inxulunyaniswe no-Angela Davis kwaye ngakumbi ichazwa njengo 'Angela Davis jonga.' Ngelishwa, ukuthandwa komfanekiso wakhe kube negalelo kutshintsho lweAfro ukusuka kwisenzo esichaza ukuzibophelela kwezopolitiko kumatshantliziyo azinikeleyo kwisitayile esinokuthi sinxitywe ngabantu abathanda nje ifashoni.
Uhlobo oluye lwaba yiAfro luvela kubafazi abamnyama. Kuba uninzi lwamadoda amnyama ayenxiba iinwele ezimfutshane ezingakhanyiswanga ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1950, iinwele ezimfutshane ezingafakwanga zingabonisa kuphela into ephawuleka kubafazi abamnyama. Xa, phakathi kwiminyaka yoo-1960, isitayile saguqukela ekubeni yimilo engqukuva enkulu, saba sisitayile samadoda nabafazi. Kuba amadoda amnyama ayedla ngokunxiba iinwele ezingalungiswanga, iAfro yayiyiAfro kuphela xa inkulu. Ngexesha lokugqibela lika-1960 kunye nasekuqaleni kweminyaka yee-1970, xa amadoda nabafazi babenxibe iAfros, intengiso yezorhwebo kunye nomsebenzi wobugcisa kwezopolitiko ngokubanzi kwaqinisekisa ukwahlulahlula ngokwesini okwakucelw 'umngeni ngabafazi bokuqala ababenesibindi sokunxiba iinwele ezimfutshane ezingafakwanga. Imifanekiso engenakubalwa yexesha yabonisa intloko kunye namagxa endoda emnyama enxibe iAfro enkulu emva komfazi omnyama oneAfro enkulu. Ngokwesiqhelo, amahlombe omfazi ayenqunu kwaye wayenxibe amacici amakhulu.
Ukwala ukuthandwa kunye nokubaluleka okunyamezelayo
Ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yama-1960 abantsundu u-Rap Rap wakhalaza ngelithi, phantsi kweenwele zabo babebaninzi abamnyama 'ababephumeze iingqondo zabo.' Ekupheleni kweminyaka elishumi abamnyama abaninzi baya kuvuma ngokubona kwakhe ukuba isitayela asithethi nto malunga neembono zomntu ogqobayo. Njengokuba imfashini ibandakanya isitayile esothusayo ngaphambili, yahlula iAfro kwimvelaphi yayo yezopolitiko. Umzi-mveliso wokukhathalela iinwele usebenze ukubeka iAfro njengenye indlela phakathi kwezinto ezininzi kunye nokuphinda uqinise iinwele njengenyathelo lokuqala elibalulekileyo lokhathalelo lweenwele zabasetyhini abamnyama. Ngo-1970 isimbo esaziwa ngokuba yi-Curly Afro, esasifuna ukolulwa kunye nokugoba iinwele, sathandwa ngabafazi abamnyama. Ngo-1972 uRon O'Neal wavuselela imifanekiso yangaphambi kowe-1960s yobuntu obumnyama xa wayenxibe iinwele ezinde ezijija njengenkwenkwezi yefilimu Superfly. Ii-Afros ezinkulu ziyaqhubeka ukuthandwa ngee-1970s kodwa ukusetyenziswa kwazo kwiifilimu zokuthintela ubuqhetseba zazisa imibutho emitsha kunye nemiboniso yeHollywood yeparodic yamasiko amnyama.
Ngelixa umjikelo omkhulu weAfro unxulunyaniswa kakhulu nee-1970s ukuba uhlala uvuseleleka kwimixholo ehlekisayo ye-retro, nangona kunjalo i-Afro yayineziphumo ezingapheliyo. Yandisa ngokusisigxina imifanekiso yobuhle. Ngo-2003 imvumi emnyama uErykah Badu wangena eqongeni eHarlem's Apollo Theatre enxibe iwigi enkulu yeAfro. Emva kweengoma ezimbalwa wasusa iwigi ukuveza iinwele zakhe ezimfutshane ezingafakwanga. Iintatheli zichaze iinwele zakhe zisebenzisa ulwimi oluqeshwe ngabo babeqale bazama ukuchaza izimbo ezazinxitywe yimvumi uNina Simone, Abbey Lincoln, kunye no-Odetta ekuqaleni kweminyaka yoo-1960. Bayibiza ngokuba 'isondele kakhulu.' Phambi kokuthandwa kwabasetyhini abamnyama base-Afro babefihla iinwele ezingalungiswanga phantsi kwesikhafu. Ngokusebenzisa i-Afro uluntu lukhule lukuqhelile ukubona ubunjani beenwele ezingamiswanga njengezintle kwaye kwavulwa indlela yokwanda kwezitayile zase-Afrika zaseMelika ezingacacanga.
Bona kwakho Isinxibo saseMelika; Imfashini yaseAfrocentric; Abachebi; Izixhobo zeenwele; Abalungisa iinwele; Isitayile esinenwele.
Yimalini ikati eragdoll
Uluhlu lweencwadi
UBracey, uJohn H., Omnci, uAugust Meier, kunye no-Elliott Rudwick, ii-eds. Ubuzwe obuMnyama eMelika. ENew York: Inkampani yeBobbs-Merrill, ngo-1970.
UCraig, uMaxine Leeds. Ngaba ayindim uKumkanikazi woBuhle: Abafazi abaMnyama, uBuhle, kunye nezoPolitiko zohlanga , ENew York: IYunivesithi yaseOxford Press, 2002. Ibandakanya imbali eneenkcukacha zokuvela kweAfro.
UDavis, uAngela Y. 'Imifanekiso yeAfro: Ezopolitiko, Imfashini, kunye neNostalgia.' Uphando oluBalulekileyo 21 (Ekwindla 1994): 37-45. UDavis ubonakalisa ukusetyenziswa kweefoto zakhe zeAfro kwimifanekiso yefashoni engenamxholo wezopolitiko.
UKelley, uRobin D. G. 'Ixesha leNap: Ukubeka imbali kwiAfro.' Ithiyori yeFashoni 1, hayi. 4 (1997): 339-351. U-Kelley ulandelela imvelaphi emnyama ye-bohemian ye-Afro kunye nenguqu yayo ukusuka ebufazini ukuya kwisitayile sobudoda.
UMercer, uKobena. 'Iinwele eziMnyama / iZopolitiko zeSitayile.' Kwi Ngaphandle phaya: ukuThathelwa bucala kunye neenkcubeko zale mihla , ehlelwe nguRussell Ferguson, uMartha Gever, uTrinh T. Minh-ha, kunye noCornel West, 247-264. ICambridge, iMisa: IMIT Cinezela, 1990. UMercer ubeka iAfro kwimeko yenkqubo yokunyamekela iinwele ezimnyama kunye nemiceli mngeni kwimbono ebibanjelwe ngokubanzi yokuba ukulungiswa kweenwele kubonisa ukuzonda abamnyama.
