Imbali yeeHats zamadoda

Umnqwazi oboniswe kwijoni

Ukukhuselwa, inqanaba, kunye namampunge kuhlala zizizathu eziphambili zokuthwala iminqwazi. Umnqwazi ungaphezulu kunesinxibo; yinto yokufikelela kwifashoni yobuchopho enokuphawula ubuntu, isimilo sentlalo, kunye nendlela yokuphila. Inkulungwane yamashumi amabini ananye ubudala ayinangqondo, ngaphandle kwekepusi ye-baseball kunye nee-hoods zangoku. Oku kunokuba kukudlula nje, kodwa kubalulekile ekuhlaleni njengemikhwa yexesha elidlulileyo, xa amadoda wayenxiba iminqwazi efanelekileyo ngalo lonke ixesha.



IiWigs Vs. Iminqwazi

Kubekho amaxesha angenantsingiselo kwimbali ngaphambili. I-wigs yenkulungwane yeshumi elinesibhozo yatshintsha iminqwazi kunye ne-coiffeurs yamsusa lowo wamthiyayo, kodwa inkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba yayalela iminqwazi yamadoda kwakhona ngeendlela ezininzi ezibalulekileyo ezisakhunjulwa nge-nostalgia. I-post-World War I ideocracy, idemokhrasi, iziseko zophuhliso zangoku, kwaye, okona kubaluleke kakhulu, imoto, konke oko kubangele ukonakala kweminqwazi ngokuthe ngcembe. Imfazwe yesibini yeHlabathi yatshintsha amaxabiso entlalontle nangakumbi, oku kukhokelela kwilungelo lolutsha eliyimfuneko lokufuna ukubonakala lahluke ngokupheleleyo kwisizukulwana esidlulileyo. Nangona kunjalo i-pendulum yefashoni ayiyi kuyeka ukujija, kwaye kungakho ixesha elizayo apho ifashoni iya kufuna ukuba iintloko ziphinde zigqunywe. Kutheni le nto ifashoni yokunxiba okanye yokunganxibi umnqwazi ishukuma ngamaxesha ahlukeneyo inokuchazwa ngokujonga emva kuphuhliso lwembali noluntu.



uyisusa njani isepha yomgquba kwithayile
Amanqaku afanelekileyo

Iintsimbi zentsimbi

AmaRoma amandulo ayephila kwixesha elingenamikhono kodwa abonisa imeko yawo ngokunxiba imisonto yentsimbi ngaphezulu kwebrawuza yabo. Okungafaniyo yayizizigcina-ntloko zomkhosi, zazinxitywa ngaphezulu kwekepusi yesikhumba kwaye zibanjwe endaweni yomtya. Izizwe zaseNtla Yurophu zazinxiba iminqwazi yesikhumba ngaphambi kokuthinjwa ngamaRoma. Ikepusi yesikhumba enamacandelo asibhozo, ekuthiwa ingaphezulu kweminyaka engama-2 000 ubudala, igcinwe kwiZiko loLondolozo lweMbali likaZwelonke eCopenhagen, eDenmark, nekufuneka ukuba ibe ngowona mnqwazi womntu mdala embalini.





Hoods

Indoda enxibe ihood

Ukufika kobuKristu eYurophu, icawa yafuna ukuba umzimba ugqunywe ngengubo efakelweyo bardocucullus . Ubuso babugutyungelwe zizo zonke iintlobo zeebhokhwe kunye neendevu, ifashoni eNgilane de uNorman woyisa iSaxon ngo-1066. Uhlaselo lwaseFrance lwanyanzelisa ifashoni yobuso obuchetyiweyo kunye neenwele ezimfutshane, ezazisoloko zigutyungelwe yi-coif , ikepusi yelinen esondeleyo, ebotshwe phantsi kwesilevu. Uhlobo olwahlukileyo yayiyikepusi yaseFrigiya, umnqwazi othambileyo, osondeleyo ocacileyo, ophefumlelwe yimfashini yaseFenike, eyaziswa eYurophu ngabarhwebi abavela kwiMeditera.

Iminqwazi iguquka

Amanqanaba okuqala aphakathi akhombise ii-hoods kunye neekepisi ezidityanisiweyo zaba ziigorge (i-hood kunye ne-neckpiece) kunye ne-coif-de-maille (intsimbi ye-imeyile ye-chain hood). Abantu abaqeqeshiweyo, njengoogqirha, babenxibe ngokutyebileyo ii-skullcaps. Iminqwazi yokuqala enemiphetho, eyenziwe ngomququ okanye ukuziva, yayisetyenziswa kwaye inxitywa ngabasebenzi emasimini, behambisa amehlo abo elangeni nasemvuleni. I-coif yelinen ethambileyo, ebotshelelwe phantsi kwesilevu yayihlala inxitywa phantsi komnqwazi, ngaloo ndlela kugcinwa iinwele ezinde endaweni yazo. Ekupheleni kwenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithathu, i umnqwazi ngomlomo , umnqwazi omile, ujijelwe imilo yomlomo okhombe ngaphambili, waba yifashoni yabafana kwaye yayihlala inxitywa ngaphezulu kwe coif. Emva kwexesha, i umnqwazi wentsimbi , ukwahluka kwisigcina-ntloko esivaliweyo, kunikwa umthunzi kunye nokukhuselwa ngentloko, umphetho, kunye ne-chinstrap.



Ikhonkco lemeyile

Coif-de-imeyile

Izambatho zentloko ziye zasebenza ngakumbi kwinkulungwane yeshumi elinesine, kunye neebhombu ezilulamileyo nezithobekileyo eziphuhlisa iindawo ezihlala zihleli kunye nezide. Iityhubhu ezinde ezithambileyo, ezinxitywe ngaphezulu kwegorget, zazibizwa ngokuba ziiripipe kwaye zihlala zihambelana nempahla ezinemfashini ezine okanye ezintlanu. Umbhobho unokufikelela kwiinyawo ezimbini ubude kunye neribhoni ende eyongeziweyo, enokuthi inxeba ijikeleze intloko ngokungafaniyo okungapheliyo. I-coif, i-gorget, kunye ne-liripipe babizwa ngokuba yi-chaperon. Ibhendi ejikeleziweyo, egxunyekwe, ebizwa ngokuba yi-rondelet, ngamanye amaxesha yayisongezwa ngama-jongleurs anemfashini, iimvumi ezijikelezayo kunye nabasekeli bexesha eliphakathi. Ukwahluka okungaphaya kufezekisiwe ngokuqengqeleka kwegorget ngaphezulu kwebunzi okanye ngokujija iripipipe ejikeleze intloko, ukwenza uhlobo lwesimbo. Ukongezwa kolu lungelelwaniso lunokuba ngumnqwazi wehokhi evaliweyo, isitayile esinxitywa ngamadoda nabafazi, esivumela ukwahluka nangakumbi ngokwahlulahlula okanye ukubetha imiphetho, okanye ngokunxiba umnqwazi ngaphambili. Ukwahlukahluka kwakubonakala kungapheli kunye neetammy berets ezithambileyo ezinxitywe ngaphezulu kwee-coifs okanye ezityatyekwe ngaphezulu kwemiphetho. Izinto ezahlukileyo zahluka kwesikhumba esomeleleyo kwaye zaziva zoboya kunye neevelvet zesilika ezixabisekileyo ezinemibala echumileyo, ehambelana okanye eyahlukileyo kunxibo enkulu yamaxesha aphakathi.



Ubushushu noBuntu

IiHoods kunye neendawo ezintle zokufudumala ziyaqhubeka ngenkulungwane yeshumi elinesihlanu, kunye nemilo yomnqwazi eyongeza ubuqu. Ngamaxesha athile, igorget ethambileyo yathatyathelwa indawo lelizwe elomileyo, ikhola eqinileyo ekhwela entloko kwaye ifakwe ngaphakathi kwiripipe okanye irondelet ngasemva kwentloko. I-coif yahlulwa ukuba inxitywe njenge-nightcap ebizwa ngokuba yi-cuffie, i-cappeline, i-benducci, okanye i-bendoni kwaye yatshintshwa ngamachaphaza eelinen asondeleyo ngaphandle kwe-chinstraps. Ukunxitywa phantsi kwe-velor yexabiso eliphantsi okanye iminqwazi emikhulu, esi yayisisisombululo esisebenzayo sokugcina ngaphakathi umnqwazi ucocekile kumbilo kunye negrisi. Njengoko ii-hoods kunye nee-liripipes zazingasuswa ekubuliseni, kuye kwafuneka baphakanyiswe ngeminwe emibini ngelixa bequbuda, isenzo esibizwa ngokuba ' ukuhlonipha uCapuchin. IVatican yanefuthe kwimikhwa yokuziphatha nakwifashoni yamadoda. I-becca ithathe indawo yeliripipe kwaye yaba luphawu lwentlalontle ngebhendi yayo ende kunye neflethi, ilenga phantsi egxalabeni lasekunene, yaxhonywa esifubeni, okanye yangena ebhanti. Ukubulisa inenekazi, indoda kwakufuneka iphakamise umnqwazi wayo ngesandla sasekunene, ngelixa ibambe imisinga ye-becca ngasekhohlo kwayo. Inzuzo ebonakalayo ye-becca yayikukukhusela umnqwazi xa wawuphoswa egxalabeni lendoda, isiko elisasetyenziswayo kwizambatho zomthendeleko ze-Order yeGarter.



'Entsha' yeeFashoni

Ifashoni yamadoda itshintshile ukusuka kumbono omde, omde ophakathi ukuya kumbono omfutshane, omileyo ngenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithandathu, eyasekwa eNgilane nguKumkani uHenry VIII. Iflethi, iibharethi ezibanzi zancoma isimbo esihle. Zazinxitywe nkqo okanye zinekona ezinemiphetho engqindilili enamacala amathandathu okanye asibhozo ngaphantsi, zazisaziwa njengee'bonetes. ' Iminqwazi ebrimmed yaphuhliswa yaziitayile ezivuthayo, ezibizwa ngokuba yi-'beavers 'emva koboya obusetyenziselwa ukucoca. Ezi zivaliweyo iminqwazi yayihlala ichetywa ngoboya bokwenyani, obusetyenziselwa i-rondelets naphantsi kweepherim.

UKumkani uHenry VIII

UKumkani uHenry VIII

Iintsiba zeentsiba ze-swan kunye ne-brooches yokuhombisa, iipleyiti zegolide kunye ne-crests zonyusa ukubonakala kokuchuma. I-coif itshintshele kwi-caul, i-snood ebanzi enxitywa phantsi komnqwazi okanye ngaphakathi endlwini. Abafana abancinci bathanda ii-hoods ezinamanqaku amade kakhulu phantsi, anokubenzakala entloko. Abarhwebi abachumileyo babenxiba iminqwazi, ii-berets ezifakwe ii-rondelets, ngelixa amadoda amadala ekhetha ii-birettas eziphakamileyo nezisicaba, zihlala zibomvu krwe.

Ngexesha likaElizabethan, iminqwazi yamadoda yatshintsha yaba ziingqungquthela, izithsaba ezinesithsaba esiphakamileyo, ezihonjiswe ngokutyebileyo ngegolide kunye nesilivere yamaqhosha, intambo yeVandyke, kunye neeplike zangaphandle ezivela kumazwe amatsha aseMelika. ENgilani, onke amadoda angaphezulu kweminyaka emithandathu kwakufuneka athwale umnqwazi ngokomthetho. Lo mthetho wenkundla wabhengezwa ngenjongo yokukhuthaza urhwebo lweminqwazi.

yeyiphi iminyaka yokucacisa ikati

Ukongezwa kwenkulungwane yeshumi elinesixhenxe

Ngenkulungwane yeshumi elinesixhenxe, iminqwazi yahluka nangakumbi ngokugqithileyo. Ukubhabha okubanzi kunye neentsiba zeenciniba ezixhonywe emiphethweni yayiyifashoni yesithixo esitsha sothando, 'umkhweli,' umfanekiso ongafakwanga kwimizobo emininzi. Umnqwazi we-beaver we-cavalier, obekwe kwilokhwe ende, ebalekayo yothando yayikukugqibelela kobuhle, ukubukeka kwepikoko, okuthatha ixesha kunye nobutyebi ukugqibelela, ekusenokwenzeka ukuba sisizathu sokuba iiwigi zize kwifashoni. Ukunxiba i-periwig, eyenziwe ngabantu okanye ngehashe phantsi komnqwazi, yayiyinto elula, ethatha ixesha elininzi, evumela ukwahluka okungaphezulu kombala kunye nesitayile. Umnqwazi omtsha ofezekileyo wesitayile yayiyi-tricorn, efana neewigi ezazikwifashoni kude kube sekupheleni kwenkulungwane yeshumi elinesibhozo. Inqaku lomntu liphunyezwe ngokunxiba umnqwazi nokuba ukhombe ngaphambili okanye ecaleni nangokongeza imihombiso eyahlukeneyo njengeentsiba zeentsiba kunye neecockade; ebaluleke kakhulu kuzo zonke izambatho zasemkhosini.

IiWigi zibuya

Iwigi yebarrister

Ifashoni ngenkulungwane yeshumi elinesibhozo yayilawulwa ziinwele kunye neewigi ezishiya iminqwazi ukuba iphathwe ngesandla kwaye iphakanyiswe ngemibuliso kunokuba inxitywe. IiCoiffeurs zenze ii-wigs zeentlobo ezinkulu, iitowder ezenziwe ngomgubo okanye iziko ezahlulwe ngemigca kunye neehagu ezixhonywe ngasemva. I-tricorn yayisenxityiwe, kodwa yatshintsha imilo ngokucaba okanye 'ukuxhonywa' ngaphambili, eyayingumboniso wesigqoko esineembombo-mbini. Uboya beeverver, ( ibeaver ngesiFrentshi) yayisasetyenziswa njengempahla yokunqanda, kodwa yayihlala ixutywe ngezizathu zoqoqosho noboya bemvundla emva koko yabizwa ngokuba ' Iidem-castors. Zombini iitricorn kunye neewigi ezenziwe ngobunono zaphulukana nomtsalane wazo ekupheleni kwenkulungwane. Ifashoni yase-Yuropu yaphenjelelwa luQhushululu lwaseFrance, xa amadoda aphalaza iingcinga zobuhlanga ethanda ukulingana. Ujikeleze, iminqwazi emincinci kunye nemibala ekhanyayo evakalayo, enqunyiwe ngamabhanti alula kunye namabhanti, enxitywe ngaphezulu kweenwele ezinemibala yendalo yayiyi-'de rigueur. '

Ukunyuka kweMinqwazi eNtshona

Okumangalisayo kukuba, ukuqala kwenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba kwabhengeza iminyaka emitsha yeminqwazi yamadoda kwilizwe laseNtshona, nelathi lafikelela kwincopho yalo ngenkulungwane yamashumi amabini, xa kungekho nene iyakuphuma endlwini yayo inganxibanga umnqwazi. Izambatho zamadoda zazinyanzeliswa kukungakhathali kunye nokulingana kunye neminqwazi ezalisekise indima ebalulekileyo ekumakiseni ngokungafaniyo umahluko, ubuqu kunye nobungcali, kunye nokwahlulahlula udidi lwentlalo. Iminqwazi ephezulu, izitya zokubhowula, ii-derbies, izikhephe, ii-fedoras, i-panamas, kunye neekepusi zelaphu zonke zenziwe kule nkulungwane kwaye zahlala kwinkulungwane yamashumi amabini.

Iminqwazi ephezulu

Umnqwazi omnyama ophezulu

Umnwazi ongaphezulu

Umpheki omnyama wesilika wayengowokuqala emgceni. Iphuhlisiwe ukusuka kumnqwazi we-stovepipe ophakamileyo ophakamileyo, yaba ngumnqwazi onxitywe yi-postrevolution aristocracy kunye nomfuziselo wobungxowankulu obuzinzileyo. Imvelaphi yayo yayingaphantsi ngokusemthethweni. Njengeminye iminqwazi emininzi embalini, umntu ongaphezulu, okwaziwa nangokuthi ' umnwazi ongaphezulu , 'yayiyilo loyilo lwaseFrance, ekuqalekeni kwabangela ingqumbo kunye nokudakumba eLondon kwii-1790s. Ngokwe- KwiGazethi kaMayfair , lo umnqwazi mde mde mde 'woyikisayo abantu, wenza abantwana bakhale, nezinja zikhonkotha.' UJohn Heatherington, ihaberdasher yaseLondon owayenesibindi sokuyinxiba, wabanjwa wagwetywa 'ngokuphembelela ukwaphulwa koxolo.' Ngaphandle kwesi siqalo sinzima, umnqwazi ophakamileyo omnyama wamkelwa ngokuthe ngcembe ngamadoda ahloniphekileyo eNtshona.

Ulwakhiwo kunye nokwenza itopper ephezulu kwakukutsha, nako. Umnqwazi awuzange ubunjwe nge-beaver kodwa wakhiwa nge-calico eqinileyo, eyayigqunywe ngelaphu le-silk plush kwaye yajikelezwa yade yaguda kwaye ikhazimla. I-Mercury yayisetyenziselwa ukwandisa ubumnyama bentsimbi kwaye kamva yafunyanwa ukuba ibangele ukuphazamiseka kwengqondo, yiyo loo nto igama elidumileyo elithi 'mad as hatter.' Ukuphakama kunye nokumila kwesithsaba kwahluka, eyona inde iyile 'kite-high dandy,' enobude obuziisentimitha eziyi-21 (21cm). Ubukhulu betafile ephezulu yahluka ngokunjalo kunye nayo kunye 'nokumisa' kwesithsaba sesitshimini. Ngasekupheleni kwenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba, kwagqitywa umnqwazi owayo, owaziwa njenge 'chapeau claque' okanye 'chapeau Gibus,' emva komqambi wayo waseFrance. Olu luyilo lubukrelekrele lunokusongelwa kwiflethi-ekhonsathi-kwaye libuye libuyele kumilo ngokuqhwitha inqindi, ngokwenza njalo kube lula ukugcinwa.

Izitya zokubhowula

Umnqwazi wokubhowula, owawubizwa ngokuba yi-derby e-United States, wawuyilwe ngo-1849 ekuphakameni kwenguquko kwezamashishini eBritane. Njengomnqwazi ophezulu, ngokukhawuleza yaba yinto yodidi lwewodi kunye nebheji ye-quintessential yesiNgesi. Ebizwa ngegama likaJohn noWilliam Bowler, abazondi abavela eStockport, isixeko esineemizi-mveliso kumantla eNgilane, yayiza kuba ngumnqwazi wokuqala owenziwa ngobuninzi embalini. Isidwangube saseNgilani esasifuna umnqwazi omtsha wokuzingela sayalela uyilo lwantlandlolo. Lock kunye neNkampani, abazonda iSt.James eLondon, ukusukela ngo-1676, babenikwe isishwankathelo sokuba banikeze umnqwazi omnyama, ongqukuva onxibe isithsaba, osebenzayo kwaye onxibe nzima, kodwa onxibayo nowangoku. Okona kubaluleke kakhulu, umnqwazi kwakufuneka ube nzima kwaye ukhusele njengoko wawuza kusetyenziselwa ukukhwela. Ukwenza iminqwazi evakalayo kwakusenziwa ngokwesiqhelo ziifektri ezincinci eMzantsi London, ezazizama ukuqina kweemvakalelo ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo. Into ebizwa ngokuba yi-shellac yagqitywa ngokudibanisa isicatshulwa esimnyama esifana nesirhwaphilizi esifumaneka kuMazantsi mpuma eAsia sinomoya we-methylated. Ezi zivalo zazisongwa ngesandla kwaye zabethwa kumxube oshushu kunye nokutsha, ngaphambi kokuba zivalwe kwaye zomiswe kwiibhloko zomthi. Inkqubo ibinzima kwaye imdaka, kodwa isitshixo kwimveliso yobuninzi, isenza umnqwazi ufikeleleke kubantu abakumgangatho ophakathi.

Bowler unayo

Bowler unayo

Uguquko kumashishini e-Bhritane nakulo lonke elaseNtshona Yurophu luzise utshintsho kwezentlalo kunye notshintsho kwezolimo luye kwiifektri. Iifektri zazifuna kungekuphela abasebenzi kodwa kwanabaphathi, abagcini beencwadi, kunye nabagcini zimali, onke amadoda akumgangatho ophakathi ahamba kaloliwe asandula ukuyilwa enxibe izitya ezimnyama okanye 'iminqwazi yentsimbi.' Ngokuqina kwayo, ukujonga okuqinileyo umnqwazi yayiyindlela efanelekileyo yokufashisa kunye nesitayile sabakhweli bezentlalontle eBritane yaseBritane: umnqwazi onobuqili, oqondayo oguqula wonke umntu abe yindoda. I-Earl kaDerby yazisa umnqwazi e-United States, kungoko igama elinikwe yona phaya.

Nguwuphi umzekelo woxinzelelo loontanga?

I-Bowler ibambe indawo yayo kwifashoni ngaphezulu kwekhulu leminyaka, i-silhouette yayo eyahlukileyo eyenza ukuba ibe ngowona mfanekiso wesigqoko saziwayo kwimbali. Umnqwazi wokubhowula wawungafakwanga kubugcisa, umdlalo ohlekisayo kunye noncwadi, kwaye usasetyenziswa nanamhlanje kwintengiso. UCharlie Chaplin wenza umnqwazi odumileyo kwimiboniso bhanyabhanya yakhe engacacanga yee-1920s, isenzo sokuqhula, esalandelwa nguLaurel noHardy kwiminyaka embalwa kamva. USamuel Beckett wabeka iminqwazi yokubhowula kwiitramp kumdlalo wakhe odumileyo, Ukulinda uGodot ('Akanakho ukucinga ngaphandle komnqwazi wakhe,' utshilo omnye wabalinganiswa.) UBertolt Brecht's I-Threepenny Opera iminqwazi ye bowler kunye ne anarchist ka Stanley Kubrick kwi Umsebenzi wewotshi unxiba isitya esinyukayo. Imizobo kaRené Magritte idume ngenxa yeminqwazi yokuphosa kumanani akhe. Imifanekiso eqingqiweyo iye yawonakalisa umfanekiso womnqwazi nawo, kumfanekiso oqingqiweyo wobhedu onesitya sokubhowula Indoda ekuMoya ovulekileyo Ngu-Ellie Nadelman kwiMyuziyam yoBugcisa bemihla ngemihla eNew York. Ibonakalisa ikhonkco phakathi kweNdala neLizwe elitsha, inguqu phakathi kwendibano kunye nexesha langoku.

uphendula ngeliphi idolo

Amashumi amabini ankulungwane entloko

Ngexesha lenkulungwane yamashumi amabini, umnqwazi omnyama wokubhowula wafana nemicimbi yezemali kwaye yaba sisambatho sosomashishini baseJamani ngeminyaka yeRiphabhlikhi yeWeimar (ngo-1918 ukuya ku-1933), kodwa urhulumente wamaNazi wayibiza ' Judenstahlhelm , 'bayikhupha ngokusemthethweni, kwaye bayisebenzisa kwiinkqubo ezichaseneyo namaSemite. I-bowler yahlala isinxibo esiqaphelekayo seebhanki kwiSixeko saseLondon kude kube ngama-1970 kwaye isanxitywe ngamagqwetha esixeko ambalwa namhlanje.

umnqwazi omnyama wase homburg

IHomburg inayo

I-homburg yayisisigcina-ntloko saseJamani, esifana nesitya, kodwa ngesithsaba esiphakamileyo nesincinci kwaye sathiywa ngegama lesixeko sayo. Kuthiwa uKing Edward VII wase-Bhritane wabona umnqwazi owawunxitywa ngumza wakhe waseJamani uKaiser William kwaye ke waqala ifashoni eNgilane. Abezopolitiko base-Bhritane abanjengoWinston Churchill kunye no-Anthony Eden nabo bayakuthanda ukunxiba lo mnqwazi. I-fedora yaseMelika kunye nenguqulelo encinci yase-Bhritane, i-trilby, zivakala njengeminqwazi enezithsaba ezinamazinyo kunye neebherim ezijikiswe ngasemva, kwaye ezantsi ngaphambili, zenza mnyama amehlo. Iminqwazi ethambileyo izise ukujonga okungaqhelekanga kwifashoni yamadoda, ebitshintshile ukusuka kwiidyasi ezimnyama ukuya kwiisuti nakwiidyasi. IFedora kaFranklin D. Roosevelt yanceda ukutshintsha umfanekiso wobongameli bakhe emva kokubulawa kukaMongameli McKinley, owayehlala ethwele umnqwazi omnyama ophezulu. I-soft trilby ye-trilby yayisisigqoko se-bohemian, esasinxitywe ngabaculi kunye nabaculi banamhlanje abafuna ukuma ngokuchasene nexabiso elidala lokugcina. Ngeminyaka yoo-1930 kunye no-1940 umnqwazi uthathe indawo yemigulukudu e-United States, neyayixhatshazwa ngabenzi beemiboniso bhanya-bhanya kunye neenkwenkwezi. Yayingumnqwazi owawunxitywa ngabapapasho beendaba, oonondaba bolwaphulo-mthetho, nabaphathi beMafia, ababethetha into engacacanga phantsi kwesitayile.

Umnqwazi wepanama

IPanama inayo

Phanama

Isigqoko se-panama yayisisigcina-ntloko sasehlotyeni sale ndoda yanamhlanje ngasekupheleni kwenkulungwane yamashumi amabini. Umnqwazi wawulukiwe usebenzisa eyona jipijapas straw, uguquguqukayo ngokwaneleyo ukuba uqengqeleke kumbhobho omncinci wokupakisha kunye nokuhamba. I-Panamas yayenziwe ngesandla e-Ecuador kwaye yathunyelwa ngePanama Canal, eyanika umnqwazi igama layo. Ukukhulisa nokulungisa umququ kwakuyinkqubo ende kwaye ke kwakulukwa nomnqwazi, owawunokuthatha umsebenzi onobuchule ukuya kuthi ga kwiiveki ezine. Isigqoko se-panama esona sinexabiso eliphezulu sibizwa ngokuba yiMontecristi fino-fino. Njengabaninzi abaluki beminqwazi abaseleyo e-Ecuador, lo mnqwazi uye waba yinto yomqokeleli. Iinguqulelo ezingabizi kakhulu kunye nepanama zamaphepha zithandwa kakhulu kwaye ziveliswa ngobuninzi kumazwe amaninzi namhlanje.

Iphenyane

I-boater yayiyenye umnqwazi ithandwayo womququ wenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba neyamashumi amabini. Umququ wawulukiwe, wathungelwa ujikeleziswa, waqiniswa wavalwa ngokuma kwimo yawo eyahlukileyo yesithsaba esithe tyaba kunye nobungqindilili obungqindilili. Uyilo lwebheyile luvela kubume beminqwazi yoomatiloshe kwaye ilungele ukubonwa ngokungekho sikweni kwamadoda athande ukujika kwenkulungwane yamashumi amabini.

Stetson

Indoda enxibe umnqwazi wenkwenkwe

Istetson umnqwazi weenkomo

I-Stetson ngumnqwazi waseMelika ngokwenene, isitayile, ukhuseleko, kwaye ngokungathandabuzekiyo ubudoda; umnqwazi wentili kunye neyona nto ixabisekileyo yenkwenkwe yenkomo, iveza isibindi sesilivere kunye nothando lwaseWest West. Imvelaphi yayo iseFiladelfiya, apho uJohn Batterson Stetson waseka umzi-mveliso wakhe wokuqala womnqwazi ngo-1880, owawuza kukhula ube lelinye lamashishini amakhulu aseMelika kwinkulungwane yamashumi amabini. Emva kokuba efundile imigaqo yokwenza umnqwazi kuyise, uJohn Stetson waqala wafuna udumo kunye nobutyebi ngokuhamba umgama oziikhilomitha ezingama-750 ukuya ngasentshona, kwaye esusa nokwenza iminqwazi ngomlilo wenkampi kwabo wayehamba nabo. Khange ayifumane igolide, kodwa izakhono zakhe kunye nokuqina kuye kwamnceda ukuba akhe ubukhosi obukhulu bentsimbi emhlabeni. Ukwenziwa kweStetson yanamhlanje kusekwe kubuchwephesha bokudala nokuthintela, kufuna amanqanaba alishumi elinesithathu kwimveliso, ngaloo ndlela isenza umnqwazi ube yeyona nto inexabiso eliphambili kwimpahla yomthengisi. Umfanekiso wesigqubuthelo somnqwazi weenkomo sele unike indawo kuluhlu lweemodeli ezinesitayile zoosomashishini baseTexan, bevezwe ngu-'Boss weThafa, 'njengoko benxibe nguJ. Dallas.

Oonobumba beLaphu

Iminqwazi yamalaphu yiminqwazi ethe tyaba enemiboniso yesiko ngokwesiko kwaye ithungiwe kwilaphu loboya. Imifanekiso yekepusi yayithobekile, isebenziseka ngokuhambelana nobomi bomntu osebenzayo. Ibinzana elithi, 'cap esandleni,' libonisa imeko yentlalo-njengokuba injalo imbongi yaseRussia u-Alexander Blok, 'I-Caps ithambekile, i-fag ithobe, wonke umntu ubonakala ngathi uyintolongo ebalekayo.' Ikepusi, njengezinye iminqwazi, itshintshe umfanekiso wayo kwaye inxitywe kwii-2000s zokuqala ngamanenekazi azizityebi xa edubula i-grouse okanye edlala igalufa endaweni yabasebenzi abaya kusebenza kumzi-mveliso. Abenzi bempahla okanye abaxhasi beekhaphethi, nabo benza iminqwazi ye-livery, iminqwazi yomkhosi, kunye nezitayile ezahlukeneyo zeminqwazi yezemidlalo, njengekepusi ye-baseball, eye yaba ngumnqwazi kwindalo iphela yenkcubeko yolutsha kwinkulungwane yamashumi amabini anamashumi amabini ananye.

I-beret yomkhosi

I-beret yomkhosi

Okokugqibela, ibharethi, eyayikho kudala phambi kwenkulungwane yamashumi amabini, yavela kumnqwazi womalusi waseFransi wasePyrenean yaya kowona mnqwazi womkhosi unxitywa kakhulu emhlabeni. Imibala kunye neebheji zinokwahluka, kodwa i-beret ngoku ngumnqwazi wejoni kwindalo iphela kunye nomnqwazi owuthandayo wamaqela aguqukayo. Ibutho laseFrance lentaba, Alpine abazingeli wayehlala enxibe iibharethi ezibomvu ezimnyama kwaye wazisa enye kwiBritish Field Marshal Montgomery emva kweMfazwe Yehlabathi I. Wayenxibe le bharethi, ibizwa ngokuba ' ipayi yealpine Ngexesha lokuyalelwa kwakhe yimikhosi yaseBritane ngexesha leMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi.

Bona kwakho Iminqwazi yabasetyhini; Isigqubuthelo sentloko; Isigcina-ntloko.

Uluhlu lweencwadi

Amphlett, nguHilda. Iminqwazi, Imbali yeFashoni kwizambatho zentloko . IMineola, NY: IDover Publications, Inc., 2003.

I-13 yr ubudala ubudala izimvo zepati

IHopkins, uSusie. Inkulungwane yeHats . ILondon: I-Aurum Press, ngo-1999.

UMcDowell, uColin. Iminqwazi, ubume, isitayile kunye noGlamour . ILondon: iThames kunye neHudson, Inc., ngo-1992.

URobinson, uFred Miller. Indoda kwiHowler Hat: Imbali yakhe kunye neIconography . I-Chapel Hill: IYunivesithi yaseNorth Carolina Press, ngo-1993.

Whitbourn, uFrank. Mnu Lock wesitalato iSt . ILondon: UFrank Heinemann Ltd., ngo-1971.