Ifashoni yePunk

Amagama Aphezulu Ebantwaneni

Ifashoni yePunk

I-Punk njengengubo ayinakuxoxwa ngaphandle kokubhekiswa okungenani kwimixholo yayo yomculo. Kuya kufuneka ukuba yamkelwe ukuba kwicandelo lezifundo zenkcubeko, yomelele kwaye yavelisa uthotho lweempendulo ezintsha kulwakhiwo lwethiyori yenkcubeko yolutsha. Ke, inokuthathwa njengentshukumo eyakhayo kuzo zombini imiboniso yesart kunye nembonakalo, kunye nohlalutyo olulandelayo njengesimbo senkcubeko. Ingaphikiswa ukuba inkcubeko ye-punk ime kwindawo ebalulekileyo kubudlelwane phakathi kwesitayile senkcubeko yolutsha kunye nokwenza kwayo izinto.





Iunited States

I-Punk yayineengcambu zayo kwisixeko sangaphakathi saseMelika ekuqaleni kwee-1970. Ngelixa ukuphefumlelwa kwayo kungalandelwa kude emva, njengentshukumo eneseti yobumbano obumbeneyo, iNew York ibonakala iyindawo yayo yokuzalwa. Kodwa njengoko kufanelekile kubume bayo basezidolophini, i-punk ayinakuthiwa inendawo eyodwa. IDetroit, iCleveland, kunye neLos Angeles zezinye iisayithi ezinokuthi zibange ubugcisa obuvelayo kunye nesitayile esaziwa njengepunk.

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Esinye seziphumo ezininzi zasemva kweMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi yabathengi eUnited States naseYurophu yayiyeyokwanda kwintengiso yeempahla, ngakumbi kwintengiso yenkcubeko yolutsha eyakhokelela kumzabalazo osebenzayo kubantu abancinci ukuba babumbe kwaye baziqonde ezabo isazisi ngokusetyenziswa komculo kunye nefashoni. Oku kwandiswa 'kolutsha' njenge 'ndlela' kunye 'nomphezulu' bekubonakalisiwe ekwahlukaneni kokwahlulahlula phakathi kwenkcubeko ephezulu kunye nephantsi kwiminyhadala yobugcisa be pop-yeQela elizimeleyo laseBritane kunye ne-US elingana nayo yee-1950 kunye nee-1960. Kula maqela okugqibela yayinguAndy Warhol kunye nomzi mveliso. Uphawu lwepop, umsebenzi kaWarhol, ukuphindaphinda kwendalo, kunye nokunyanzelisa kwakhe ekuchazeni into engaphezulu komgangatho ohambelana nembono yolutsha yenkcubeko ye-nihilism ejikeleze intetho ethi 'phila ngokukhawuleza, usweleke umncinci.' Kananjalo, ecaleni komnqweno kaWarhol wokuzingqonga ngenkqubo yolutsha, eyingozi, kwaye entle, imbewu yomculo we-avantgarde yaqala ukusekwa.



Ukuma kufutshane neFektori yeWarhol kunye ne-Lower East Side ngexesha lokudilika kwezopolitiko kunye nezezimali eNew York, umculo wala magcisa, ngakumbi iVelvet Underground, ubonakalise ukuphindaphinda kunye nomphezulu weziphumo zeFektri. Ukudlala kwiindawo ezinemidyarho ezinje ngeMax's Kansas City, CBGBs, kunye neeMama, umculo weeStooges, New York Dolls, MC5's, Wayne County, kunye noPatti Smith bathathe iimpembelelo zabo kwimithombo eyahlukeneyo yonke injongo yokuchitha oko kwakubonwa njenge isandi esiqhayisayo, esinyumba somculo wangoku ngohlobo 'lwenkqubela phambili' kunye 'nebala lezemidlalo'. Ukuphoxeka kuzo zonke izinto zorhwebo kunye nabaphathi abafanelekileyo kwiinkampani zokurekhoda kukhokelele kumnqweno wokwenza umculo oza kothusa abantu ezingqondweni zabo, ubuyisele umculo kubuhlwempu / kubutyebi bemihla ngemihla. Ngelixa oku kwakusenzeka e-United States, i-Bhritane yayixhonywe lilitye le-glam, isandi somculo we-pub esaziwa ngokuyinxalenye sisinxibo sabadlali bayo ababekhangele kwabo banxaxhileyo kwinqanaba labo. Kwezi mhlawumbi ezona zokuqala yayinguDavid Bowie. Ngaphantsi komtya wamagama ohlukeneyo kunye nokurekhodwa okungafaniyo, uDavid Bowie wangqineka enempembelelo kwiziphumo zakhe kumculo nakwimpahla eBritane naseMelika.

Ixabiso loomatshini bokuthunga imvumi yakudala

Ngo-1975 i-American 'punk scene' yayisele iguquke yaya kwi-subculture ebonakaliswa ngumculo weTelevishini, kwaye mhlawumbi uninzi lwamaRamones ayenxibe iimpahla ezazibonisa ii-personas zabo zesitalato. Ngenxa yokuba iimvumi ezininzi zazithambekele kwindawo yeso sixeko sangaphakathi esichazwe kwimibhalo kaWilliam Burroughs kunye no-Alexander Trocchi, kwabonakala ngathi kukuqhubeka kwendalo. Ibhatyi emnyama yesikhumba, isikipa, ijean ethe tye, kunye neeteki ze hustler zibonakalise imbonakalo yokuqala yendawo yaseMelika engaphantsi komhlaba. Ngelixa zazikhona ezo zinje ngooDoli baseNew York, ababelandela isiNgesi samagama e-glam rock ajonge i-androgyny eyenziwe ngesikhumba kunye neebhutsi ezinde emadolweni, iinwele esifubeni, kunye neblitshi-uninzi lwalandela ukujongwa kwesitalato. Kwakukuqhuma komculo ngaphakathi eUnited States okwazisa uMalcolm McLaren oselula e-United States ukulawula iiDolls zaseNew York apho wawela khona kwindawo ye-punk kwaye wenza kwacaca iinjongo zakhe zokuyibuyisela e-United Kingdom.



I-United Kingdom

UVivienne Westwood

Ngelixa kucacile ukuba uMalcolm McLaren kunye neqabane lakhe, uVivienne Westwood, basembindini kuyo nayiphi na inkcazo ye-punk, ngakumbi ngokunxibelelene nokunxiba kwayo, kuyacaca ukuba umatshini wokuzikhulisa onguMalcolm McClaren uye waphazamisa nakuphi na ukuqonda kwembali. Ngokuyinxenye oku kufanelekile, njengoko intambo yeevenkile zikaMcClaren kunye neWestwood kwiKings Road zichaze inkangeleko ethile kunye nomnqweno kaMcLaren wokuxhaphaza i-punk njengendawo yase-United Kingdom ekhokelele ngqo kulawulo nakunxibo lwee-Pistols zoSondo. Zonke iibhendi zepunk.

Ukuqala kuKings Road ngo-1972 njenge Makube Liwa ivenkile ebikhathalele ukuvuselelwa kwabafundi abasebenza kade eTeddy Boy, iidyasi, kunye nebrothel creepers, iVivienne West-wood kunye nevenkile kaMalcolm McLaren emva koko bahamba ngenani lokuphindukuzalwa, kubandakanya Ukukhawuleza ukuhlala kunye nokujolisa komntwana Ukwabelana ngesondo , nasemva koko IiSeditionaries , kwaye ekugqibeleni Ukuphela Kwehlabathi. NjengaseMelika, uMcLaren ukhuthaze abo bathukisa uluntu ukuba baxhome ivenkile. Indawo yakhe kunye neWestwood yokuthambisa ubugcisa kwangoko yabenza indawo kwindawo yaseLondon engaphantsi komhlaba. Nangona kunjalo, asithethi ngobunkunkqele baseNew York, kodwa ngomkhosi onqabileyo ngakumbi wolutsha oluphelelwe lithemba. Kwaye kweli qela kwasekwa iiPistols zoSini. Ngaphandle kwelitye 'lokumiswa kukaGlen Matlock, lonke iqela likaJohnny Rotten, uSid Vicious, uSteve Jones, kunye noPaul Cook-babesebenza ngokupheleleyo bengaphandle kwayo nayiphi na into yobugcisa okanye yobukrelekrele. Ngelixa uninzi lwamanye amaqela eepunk avelayo ayenamalungu kwimvelaphi yesikolo sobugcisa, i Imipu yesondo banokubanga ukuba yeyona nto iyinyani: iqela elisebenzayo labantwana ababhiyozela isithukuthezi kwindawo yabo ekuhlaleni.

IiAngile zethiyori

Yiyo le ngcamango yokunyaniseka kunye nabasebenzi abasebenza, ngokuyinxalenye, behlala bekhetha ukuqonda kweBrithani ne-US nge-punk njengefilosofi okanye amava enkcubeko. Ngelixa e-United Kingdom inkcubeko yolutsha inkcubeko yayiyeyona nto iphambili kulutsha olusebenzayo-ukubonakalisa ukungavumelani kunye nokuzahlula kubazali babo kunye nokuphendula ngokuchasene nembono ephambili eyayisebenza ngaphezulu ukucinezela umnqweno wabo, e-United States. ukufundwa bekungekathathi kwizithintelo ezibophelela eklasini.



Intsingiselo yesitayile

Intsingiselo yesitayile

Iziphumo e-United Kingdom yayikukupapashwa ngo-1977, incopho ye-punk yase-Bhritane, ka-Dick Hebdige's Inkcubeko: Intsingiselo yeSimbo. Isebenzisa i-punk njengomzekelo wayo ophambili, u-Hebdige wasebenzisa uthotho lweendlela ezivela kwi-Marxism ukuya kwi-Structuralism kunye ne-Semiotic ukujonga umbono wasemva kweMfazwe yesibini yeHlabathi yenkcubeko yolutsha yase-Bhritane eyakhiwa ngokusebenza kwabo kunye nomnqweno wokuphendula ngokuchasene namagunya aphezulu Oko kwabonakala kubumba ubomi babo. Kolu hlalutyo, u-Hebdige wasebenzisa umbono we-'bricolage 'njengoludibaniso lwesitayile sezinto ezingafaniyo ezinekhowudi kwi-juxtapose kunye nokwenza intsingiselo entsha kwisinxibo se-punk kunye nesitayile. Intsingiselo yentsimbi yokhuseleko njengento yokubamba ilweyile kunye nokuthintela ukwenzakala emntwaneni kwahlatywa ngempumlo okanye wanamathela kwiijini neebhatyi ezikrazukileyo. Intsingiselo yayo eyabelweyo yakuba ichazwe ngokutsha ngokunxiba kwayo njengesixhobo sokubhala.

unakho ukuba nonomyayi wesilwanyana sasekhaya

Impahla

E-Bhritane indalo emangazayo yepunk njengesitayile eyodlula leyo yaseMelika. Uyilo lukaWestwood- ukusuka 'ekutshabalaliseni' izikipa, iibhegi zebum, ibhulukhwe ebotshiweyo, ukhuseleko kunye nehempe ezikrazuliweyo, kunye nempahla ebhalwe ngempahla-yayiyinto ebonakalayo kuluntu oluthi, ubukhulu becala, luthathe iinwele ezinde endodeni njengexhala. Ngelixa iinkcubeko zolutsha zazikhe zahlanjululwa ngaphambili kumaphepha-ndaba esizwe obundlobongela kunye nokusela iziyobisi, i-punk yacela umngeni ngokuthe ngqo kwisinxibo sobuhle kunye nokuziphatha kwesizwe esigcinayo. Ngaphaya kweKings Road ngo-1976, 1977, nango-1978, impembelelo kaMcLaren kunye neWestwood yehla ngokukhawuleza. Nangona bebenokutsala abalandeli beLondon kunye neekomishini zabo zasekhaya, i-punk yayiyinto eyenzeka kwilizwe liphela kwaye ngenxa yoko yaphucula isitayile esasinokubonakala ngakumbi ukuba sihambelane kwaye singenamikhono kunempahla yaseWestwood elungele ukunxiba.

Le nto uyenzayo (i-DIY) yobuhle ibandakanya i-'bricolage 'ka-Hebdige njengokuphosa kunye uthotho lweenkangeleko ezisekwe kwizinto ezimbalwa ezisisiseko, ezinje ngeejethi ze-mohair, iijean eziqinileyo, kunye' nezihlangu zejeli. ' Kwakukho nokusetyenziswa okuxhaphakileyo kweempahla ezinesandla ezivela kwiivenkile zesisa kunye neerummage zokuthengisa iisuti kunye nezikipa kunye neebhutsi zebhola yomnyazi, ihempe zikakhokho ezingenakhola, kunye neenwele ezixhonyiweyo kunye okanye ngaphandle kobuninzi bokubhalwa kwencwadi kunye nobugcisa beeleta zamabhendi owathandayo, izilogeni ze-anarchist, okanye Imeko yezopolitiko kwezopolitiko kumaqela anje ngeClash.

Oluhleko lobugcisa mhlawumbi lwaluthotyiwe ngaphezulu kweKings Road jonga, kodwa lumele ngakumbi ipunk njengekhowudi yokunxiba ngaphakathi e-United Kingdom kokubini ngabantu kunye namaqela anje ngeeBuzzcock, eziGwetyiweyo, eziNtengiso, 999, nangaphandle kwesimbo Amagama aphantsi. Ngo-1977 ukuthandwa kwepunk njengohlobo lomculo lwalukubonile oko kudliwanondlebe olubi lukaGrundy; amaPistoli oSondo angatshatanga 'u-Thixo asindise uKumkanikazi' efikelela kwinani lokuqala kwiveki yeKumkanikazi yeGolide eyiKhulu; kunye nomdla weenkampani ezirekhodayo ekusayineni amaqela abanga ngayo nayiphi na indlela, imilo, okanye ifom yokuxhasa inkolelo yepunk.

Urhwebo

Ifashoni yeGoth

Ngo-1979 inqanaba lokuqala lepunk e-United Kingdom laliza kuphela. Ubume bayo bezentengiso buqinisekisiwe, ukusuka kwintengiso kumaphepha omculo afana I-NME kwaye Izandi ukuthengisa iimpahla zepunk, iibheji, kunye nezikipa kwiinkampani ezirekhodayo 'kwiminqweno yokukhuthaza umntu ukuba abe mnandi,' amaza amatsha 'anomdla woluntu kunye nokukhululwa kweengqokelela ezahlukeneyo ezithembise ukubalisa ibali elipheleleyo. Nangona kunjalo, i-punk ngokwayo njengomculo kunye nesitayile sizamile ukutshintsha ukuthintela ukhetho lwayo lokuthengisa / ukuthengisa ngamaqela anzima anje ngamaQela aSebenzisiweyo kunye nezopolitiko ezinje ngeCrass. Ngokuphathelene nokunxiba, kwabakho ukuphindwaphindwa kwebhatyi yesithuthuthu, ukusetyenziswa kukaGqr.Martin izihlangu ezinxitywa emsebenzini, kunye nokwaziswa kweentlobo ngeentlobo zemibala yeenwele zorhwebo, kunye neenwele zeMohawk ezifumaneka kuyo yonke indawo, yona, kunye I-penchant emnyama, iwele i-Goth kunye neentshukumo ezintsha zothando zase-1980. Kukule jonga ukuba iminyaka emininzi ibonakalisiwe, kwaye ngenxa yoko yaba ngumfanekiso we-punk.

Njengomphumo othe ngqo wamandla epunk kunye nokusasazeka kwalo lonke uthotho lwamahlumela avela kwipunk kunye neefanzines ezinje IPunk eUnited States nase Iglu yeSniffin E-Bhritane, kwacaca ukuba kukho intengiso yobuntatheli obukhuni obungqongqo, obujongana ngqo nemeko yesitalato. I-Punk yakhuthaza ukuvela ngo-1980 kwiimagazini zesitrato ezinje nge Ubuso, iD , kunye IBlitz. Nangona kunjalo, ngenxa yala maphephancwadi azama ukufumana nokuveza izinto ezigcwala ezitratweni, kuye kwanzima ngakumbi kwiintshukumo 'zenkcubeko' ukwala ukurhweba ngokubhenca. Kwaye yile nto mhlawumbi lilifa elikhulu le-punk kwisitayile senkcubeko yolutsha. Ngelixa kungachanekanga ukucebisa ukuba iinkcubeko zolutsha ngaphambi kwepunk zishiyiwe ukuba ziqhubeke ngaphandle kwamehlo abazali kunye nemisebenzi emikhulu yorhwebo ngenjongo yokubonelela, ukuba ayikokukhetha, inkcubeko yolutsha kwiinjongo zabo, kuyacaca ukuba i-punk bema kwiindlela ezinqamlezileyo zobuhle 'bokuphila' ngobuhle. Inkcubeko yolutsha kwii-2000s zokuqala iphakathi kakhulu kwaye ixhoba lokujonga ngamandla koxinzelelo lworhwebo mhlawumbi sesinye seziphumo ezingathandekiyo kangako zepunk njengesiganeko sembali.

Ukusuka kwizandi zika Seattle kunye ne-grunge, ukuya kwi-swathe yeebhendi ngo-2004 ezijongeka njengeRamones kuneRamones, ipunk inyamezele. Kumzi mveliso wefashoni, ukuqondwa kwayo njengesitayile njenge 'bricolage' kunye 'nemvukelo' kuyenza ibe sesona sithuthi sigqibeleleyo sokuphinda sisebenzise isidala kumoya wento entsha, esikhokelela ekutolikeni ipunk njengokubonakala kwamaxesha athile kumjikelo wokujikeleza. Kananjalo, ilifa layo liqinisekisiwe ngaphakathi komculo kunye neempawu zesitayile. Ukanti nokuba ezopolitiko zotshintsho okanye ukubhiyozela isimo sengqondo sokukhathazeka kunye nokuziphatha kwabakwishumi elivisayo sinokuphinda sidlalwe ngokuthembekileyo ngomnye umbuzo.

Bona kwakho Ifashoni kunye nesazisi; Iinkqubo ezincinci; Ifashoni yoLutsha; Isikipa.

Uluhlu lweencwadi

U-Anscombe, u-Isabelle. Ayikho enye incwadi yePunk. ILondon: I-Aurum Press, ngo-1978.

kuthetha ntoni ukuguqula iminyaka engama-50 ubudala

Colegrave, uStephen, kunye noChris Sullivan. IPunk. ENew York: Umlomo weThunder Press, ngo-2001.

Coon, uCaroline. Ngo-1988: Ukuqhuma kweNew Punk Rock. ILondon: iOrbach kunye neChambers Ltd, 1977.

UHabdige, uDick. Inkcubeko: Intsingiselo yeSimbo. ILondon: Methuen, 1979.

UHylin, uClinton. Ukusuka kwiiVelvets ukuya kwiiVoidoids: Imbali yangaphambi kwePunk yeLizwe lePost-Punk. ENew York: IPenguin eMelika, ngo-1993.

Ukubeka, uDavid, kunye noMilton Keynes. Imimangaliso enye yeChord: Amandla kunye nentsingiselo kwiPunk Rock. I-Philadelphia: Cofa kwiYunivesithi, ngo-1985.

Makos, uChristopher. Inkunkuma emhlophe. ILondon: Ukupapashwa kwamatye, ngo-1977.

McNeil, Imilenze kunye noGillian McCain. Nceda undibulale: Imbali yomlomo engaziwayo. ENew York: IPenguin eMelika, ngo-1996.

ixabisa malini i-penny yentsimbi ka-1943

Perry, UMarko. Iglu yeSniffin: Isixhobo esibalulekileyo sePunk. ILondon: Ukupapashwa kweSanctuary, 2000.

Sabin, Roger, ed. I-Punk Rock: Ke ngoku? ILondon neNew York: URoutledge, 1999.

Savage, uJon. Ukuphupha kweNgilani: Iipistoli zesini kunye nePunk Rock. ILondon: UFaber, ngo-1991.

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