Ngentwasahlobo ka-1851, amatshantliziyo amathathu awakhokelayo kumalungelo ababhinqileyo, u-Elizabeth Cady Stanton (1815-1902), umzala kaCady, u-Elizabeth Smith Miller (1822-1911), kunye no-Amelia Jenks Bloomer (1818-1894), umhleli Lily, Ijenali yamaLadies ezinikele kuKuHlutha kunye noNcwadi , Banxibe iimpahla ezifanayo kwizitrato zaseSeneca Falls, eNew York-ensembles ezibandakanya iilokhwe ezinde emadolweni ngaphezulu kwebhulukhwe. Ngenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba eMelika, ibhulukhwe yayiyingubo yamadoda kuphela, kwaye abafazi ababenxibe ibhlukhwe esidlangalaleni babangela uvakalelo. Imithombo yeendaba yesizwe ikhawuleze yadibanisa le ndlela yokutshintsha kwengubo kuAmelia Bloomer, owayebhala amanqaku ngayo. Kungekudala zombini iimpahla ezinxitywayo kunye nabazinxibileyo baziwa njenge-'Bloomers '.
U-Amelia Bloomer kunye neNxibo yeNkululeko
Umanyano olomeleleyo luka-Amelia Bloomer kunye nesinxibo senkululeko, njengoko sasisaziwa ngabameli bamalungelo abasetyhini, saqala ngenqaku kwi ULily ngoFebruwari 1851. UBloomer wabhala iziqwenga ezingaphezulu kwimpahla kwiinyanga ezininzi ezizayo, ngakumbi egxininisa izibonelelo zayo njengezempilo, enye indlela efanelekileyo kwiipitikoti ezininzi, izikethi ezinde, kunye neecorset ezixineneyo zelokhwe yangoku. Ukuphendula imibuzo yabafundi, uBloomer uchaze isinxibo ngokweenkcukacha kwi ILily's Ngamana ungakhupha, kwaye xa ithengisiwe, iphinde inkcazo kwinyanga elandelayo, isithi:
Amanqaku afanelekileyo- Uhlaziyo lwezambatho
- Iibhulukhwe ngeMbali
- Imvelaphi yePijama
'Iziketi zethu ziphangiwe malunga neenyawo zobude bazo bangaphambili, kunye neebhulukhwe ezikhululekileyo zento efanayo nengubo, zifakwe endaweni yazo. Ezi zilandelayo zisuka esinqeni ziye emaqatheni, kwaye zinokuqokelelwa kwiqela ... Senza ilokhwe yethu ifane njengesiqhelo, ngaphandle kokuba asinxibi bhodi, okanye incinci kakhulu, isinqe sikhululekile kwaye kulula, kwaye ngaphandle kwamathambo emnenga. … Umbhinqo wethu ugcwele, kwaye uwa kancinci ezantsi kwedolo. '
Indawo efanelekileyo yokukhulisa usapho eFlorida
Iibhulukhwe zaseTurkey
Abafazi kwiingubo zaseTurkey
Kodwa nangona kunjalo wayenxibelelene nesinxibo seBloomer ngamajelo eendaba nangoluntu, u-Amelia Bloomer akazange asungule isimbo. Iibhulukhwe ezipheleleyo zeBloomer eziqokelelwe emaqatheni zazibizwa ngokuba 'ziibhulukhwe zaseTurkey' kwaye zafaniswa nezo zinxitywa ngabafazi eMiddle East. Ukusukela kwinkulungwane yeshumi elinesibhozo, abaseYurophu nabaseMelika babenxibe ibhulukhwe enjalo kwilokhwe entle. Iicwecwe zefashoni zaseFrance zeminyaka yee-1810 zibonisa iibhulukhwe ezifanayo, ezibizwa ngokuba zii-pantalets okanye iipantaloon, zikrobe phantsi kweedokhwe ezinde ezinamathole. Nangona le ndlela yayinzima kakhulu kubafazi baseMelika, ngee-1820s abantwana besini bobabini babenxibe iilokhwe ezimfutshane ngaphezulu kweebhulukhwe ezimxinwa, ezinemilenze ethe nkqo, ekwabizwa ngokuba zii-pantalets. Amakhwenkwe atshintshana ngeebhulukhwe zangaphantsi xa sele emdala kakhulu ukuba anganxiba (ngesiqhelo ezintlanu okanye ezintandathu), ngelixa amantombazana ebenxiba kubo ebuntwaneni. Xa sele begqibe iminyaka yeshumi elivisayo, amantombazana aphumelele iilokhwe ezinde kwaye aqhubeka enxiba i-pantalets njengempahla yangaphantsi phantsi kweengubo zabo.
U-Elizabeth Smith Miller
U-Amelia Bloomer wazukisa u-Elizabeth Smith Miller ngokuzisa ilokhwe yenkululeko. Kukho iingxelo ezahlukeneyo zendlela uMiller ayile ngayo impahla yakhe, kodwa kusenokwenzeka ukuba uMiller wayezazi iimpahla ezifanayo ezinxitywa ngabafazi kwiindawo zoluntu okanye kwizibhedlele. Ukuqala ngo-1827 noLuntu loLingano eNew Harmony, eIndiana, amabhinqa kumaqela aliqela enkolo nakwezabantu baseMelika ayenxiba iibhulukhwe ezinemilenze ethe nkqo ezinje ngee-pantalets zabantwana phantsi kweedolo ezinde ezinde. Iimpahla ezahlukileyo ezinesitayile ezifanayo nazo ziye zakhuthazwa kwabasetyhini abenza imithambo yecalisthenic kunye nezigulana kunyango lwamanzi. La maxesha okuqala abafazi ababenxibe iilokhwe ezimfutshane benxibe iibhulukhwe kuye kwabangela ukugqabaza kumajelo eendaba, kodwa ngenxa yokuba iimpahla zazinxitywe kwiindawo ezivalekileyo okanye kwiimeko zabasetyhini kuphela, khange bacele mngeni kulungelelwaniso olusisiseko lwentlalo, ngokungafaniyo nemiboniso kawonkewonke yeBloomer. Iindleko kwi-1850s.
Ukwamkelwa kukaRhulumente
Ukushicilelwa kokuqala kwabathwali beBloomer ngexesha lasehlotyeni lika-1851 kwakungeyonto imbi kwaphela kodwa kungekudala ubunyani babasetyhini abanxibe ibhulukhwe bazisa uloyiko lokutshintsha kwendima yesini. Kuluntu olusekwe kulawulo lwendoda kunye nokungeniswa kwabasetyhini, amadoda abone isinxibo seBloomer njengesoyikiso kwisimo semo kwaye iinkokheli ezingamadoda ezivela kubahleli bamaphephandaba ukuya kubaphathiswa bayayigxeka le fashoni. Iikhathuni zeSatirical zibonisa abafazi ababhinqileyo beBloomer njengezikrelemnqa zokuzifica kwizenzo zamadoda ezibi kakhulu okanye kubafazi abaphetheyo abaphethe amadoda abo.
Amandla aQalayo
ULucy Stone kwiiBloomers
Nangona ababenamalungelo abasetyhini ngokubanzi babethanda ukuguqulwa kwengubo, beza kujonga isinxibo seBloomer njengamandla angenanto. Xa amatshantliziyo afundisa ukunxiba isinxibo seBloomer, abaphulaphuli bagxila kwiibhulukhwe ezinempikiswano endaweni yotshintsho olukhulu kwimfundo yabasetyhini, ingqesho kunye ne-suffrage. Ngenxa yoko, phakathi kwe-1850s, uninzi lwabameli bamalungelo abasetyhini bayeka ukunxiba iimpahla zeBloomer esidlangalaleni. U-Amelia Bloomer ngokwakhe waqhubeka nokuyinxiba kude kube ngu-1858, xa wayethetha ngokuya kwindawo entsha kunye ne-crinoline esandula ukwenziwa, eyasusa isidingo seepitikoti ezinzima, njengezizathu zokulahla ilokhwe yenkululeko kwaye wabuyela kwiziketi ezinde.
Izinto zeendaba
Isinxibo seBloomer kunye nesinxibo esifana nesaso sasibizwa ngokuba sisinxibo saseMelika, esasineebhulukhwe ezinemilenze ethe nkqo, zazizezinye ezinokusetyenziswa kunxibo olunxiba olufashisayo kwisiqingatha sesibini senkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba. Nangona inani labasetyhini abanxibe iimpahla ezinjalo esidlangalaleni lalilincinci kakhulu, kukho iiakhawunti zabasetyhini abanxibe ngasese xa besenza imisebenzi yasekhaya, yokulima, okanye yokuhamba, ngakumbi entshona.
Izolo emva kwemini, isitrato esikhulu siphoswe kwisiphithiphithi ngokubonakala ngesiquphe ... kwebhinqa elihle eliselula, elixhonywe ngaphandle kwisinxibo seBloomer-ilokhwe yakhe yenziwe yintsimbi epinki yesilika, isiketi esipinki esifikelela emadolweni neebhulukhwe enkulu emhlophe yesilika, ulungelelene macala onke emaqatheni, kunye nezinto zokuhamba ezinemibala epinki…. Omdala nomncinci, ingcwaba kunye nesini, behla baya esitratweni ukuze babone umbono weBloomer njengoko wayedlula ngokuzolileyo nangobumnandi ezantsi kwesitalato, encumile kukuziva okuvelileyo. Amakhwenkwe akhwaza, amadoda ahleka kwaye amanenekazi ancumile kulo mboniso ububodwa…. Bambalwa ababuza igama likaBloomer, kuba bonke abatyelele iTheatre ngexesha lokugqibela, baqaphela kuye umdlali weqonga wesithathu okanye wesine, ogama lakhe lokwenyani okanye elicingelwayo lavela kumatyala 'njengo-Miss O'Neil.' Ngexesha leXesha, nangona kunjalo, sifunda ukuba waqhawula ukunxibelelana kwakhe nomzimba kaMbumbi Potter wamanani aphezulu eSuper kwaye wangena kwindawo engahloniphekiyo kwesi sixeko.
Ukuhanjiswa kweRichmond NgoLwesibini, nge-8 kaJulayi 1851, iphe. 2, c. 6.
Ukunxiba ibhulukhwe esidlangalaleni
Ngo-1858 Incwadi ka-Godey's Lady yonyusa isinxibo sendlela yeBloomer yecalisthenics kwaye iimpahla ezifanayo zazinxitywa njengendleko yokuhlamba. Abaqeqeshi boqeqesho lomzimba basebenzise isinxibo seBloomer njengomzekelo ekuphuhliseni izambatho zeenkqubo zemidlalo yabasetyhini eyandayo. Iibhulukhwe ezipheleleyo zazisaziwa njengee-bloomers kwaye, ngee-1880s, zazingoyena mntu ubalulekileyo kwindawo yokwenza umthambo; Iibhulorho ezimfutshane ziyaqhubeka ukunxitywa njengenxalenye yeesuti zokuzivocavoca kwii-1970s. Iibhloko zavela esidlangalaleni ngexesha lokuhamba ngebhayisikile nge-1890s, ngoku enxitywe njengenxalenye yesuti kunye nebhatyi endaweni yelokhwe emfutshane. Abasetyhini abanxibe iibhola zebhayisikile kwii-1890s babengenampikiswano kunokuba u-Amelia Bloomer kunye nabahlobo bakhe banxibe iimpahla zabo ezidumileyo kwii-1850s, kodwa kwade kwaphakathi kwenkulungwane yamashumi amabini babesoloko benxiba iibhulukhwe esidlangalaleni ngaphandle kokugxekwa.
Bona kwakho Uhlaziyo lwezambatho; Isini sefashoni kunye nesinxibo; Ibhulukhwe.
Uluhlu lweencwadi
Bloomer, Amelia. I-Lily, iJenali yamaLadies enikezelwe kuTshisa kunye noNcwadi. NgoFebruwari, ngoMatshi, ngoAprili, ngoMeyi nangoJuni ka-1851 Inyibiba banamanqaku ngu-Amelia Bloomer ahambelana nohlengahlengiso lwengubo yabasetyhini.
UCunningham, uPatricia A. Ukuhlengahlengisa ifashoni yabasetyhini, ngo-1850-1920: ezopolitiko, ezempilo kunye nezobugcisa. EKent, eOhio, naseLondon: eKent State University Press, 2003. Imbali ebanzi yezentlalo yohlengahlengiso lwengubo yabasetyhini ngesishwankathelo esihle sendima yesinxibo seBloomer.
UFischer, uGayle V. Iipantalo kunye naMandla: Inguquko kwinkulungwane yeshumi elinethoba eMelika. EKent, eOhio, naseLondon: Kent State University Press, 2001. Uhlalutyo olucokisekileyo ngendima yenkcubeko yebhulukhwe kuluntu lwaseMelika ngenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba.
Sims, uSally. 'Ibhayisekile, iBloomer kunye noHlaziyo lweZambatho kwii-1890s.' Kwi Isinxibo kunye neNkcubeko ethandwayo. Ihlelwe nguPatricia A. Cunningham kunye noSusan Vosco Lab, 125-145. I-Bowling Green, e-Ohio: I-Bowling Green State University i-Popular Press, ngo-1991.
