I-boubou yingubo yakudala yaseSenegal, enxitywa ngamadoda nabafazi kulo lonke elaseNtshona Afrika nakwiindawo ezihlala abantu baseNtshona Afrika eYurophu naseMelika. Ithungwe kwilaphu elinye, iboubou idla ngokuba ziisentimitha ezingama-59 ububanzi kwaye inobude obahlukeneyo. Esona sitayile sihle, i boubou enkulu , ihlala isebenzisa isiqwenga selaphu esiziisentimitha ezingama-300 ubude kwaye sifikelela emaqatheni. Ngokwesiko, isiko elenzelwe oomasifundisane ngabathungi, iboubou yenziwa ngokusonga ilaphu phakathi, ukwenza ukuvulwa kwentamo, kunye nokuthunga amacala asembindini ukuya kwimikhono ebalekayo. Kubafazi intamo inkulu kwaye irhangqiwe; emadodeni yenza imilo emide engu-V, ihlala inepokotho enamacala amahlanu isika incam ye 'V.'
Xa iqine inkqayi kwaye igqunywe phezu komzimba, iboubou iyenzela lowo uyinxibileyo ukuvela kwenqwelwana entle nenqabileyo enobude obuphakamileyo nobukho. Amadoda anxiba i-classic boubou kunye nehempe efanayo kunye neebhlukhwe ngaphantsi. Abafazi bayayinxiba ngesisongeli esifanayo okanye loincloth kunye nentloko-tie.
Ilaphu, ukuhonjiswa kunye nokudaya kweBoubou
Abathungi abagxile ekwenzeni utyalo-mali olunobunkunkqele kubugcisa bokuhombisa. Ilaphu lala maqhosha ayimfakamfele ngumqhaphu wedask, obizwa ngokuba isitya kwiifrancophone kumazwe aseNtshona Afrika. Nangona eli laphu linokuthengwa ngemibala, iingcali zithanda ukuthenga amalaphu amhlophe kwaye zidaywe ngesandla kwii-hues ezityebileyo ngabafazi abadayi besebenza ngaphandle kwamakhaya abo. Ifumaneka kwiivenkile zentengiso kumanqanaba aliqela omgangatho, idamask ngexabiso eliphantsi kakhulu ivela eYurophu, ngelixa ukulinganisa okungabizi kakhulu kuvela eAsia okanye eNigeria.
Amanqaku afanelekileyo
- Ipagne kunye nesongelo
- Amagama angama-107 aMakhwenkwe aqala ngo-V (Adumile kwiVintage)
- Oumou Sy
Emva kokuba ilaphu lifakwe idayi, umthungi wenza uyilo lokuhombisa ngomatshini omncinci wokuthunga, nokuba ngumbane okanye uqhutywa ngeenyawo. Ngokwesiko, ukuhonjiswa kwakumhlophe okanye kumhlophe, kodwa ngeminyaka yoo-1970, abathungi eDakar, eSenegal, bazisa imibala enemibala, kwaye ekuqaleni kweminyaka yoo-2000 bayadibana ukuze benze uyilo oluntsonkothileyo, olunemibala emininzi kwii-hues ezinamandla zabasetyhini. Amadoda ayaqhubeka nokunxiba imifekethiso emhlophe okanye emhlophe, okanye ngapha koko sebenzisa imisonto enombala ofanayo nedamask, ihlala idayiwe ngokunzulu emfusa okanye eluhlaza. Ukwahluka kwamadoda yibhombu emhlophe emhlophe enemibala yegolide. Le yimpahla ekhethekileyo Umvuzo , umSilamsi othathe uhambo oluya eMecca. Oko ke kubhekisa kubutyebi, udumo kunye nokuhlonela uThixo. Njengakwilaphu, intambo ephezulu yokuhombisa isilika kwaye ivela eFrance. Ukulinganisa kwePolyester kungeniswa e-Asiya.
Izinto ezingalukwanga ezibandakanya isitya xhathisa umbala odreyini kuyilo olubethekileyo. Ukuxhathisa okanye ukumisa idayi, uyilo lunokuba lukhulu ngokwaneleyo ukuba lusebenzise inqaku elinye kuyo yonke i-boubou, okanye incinci ngokwaneleyo ukuba ifune amawaka ezinto ezincinci kwisitayile esiphindaphindwayo. Kuthatha iqela labafazi iinyanga ezintathu ukuthunga imithungo ngaphambi kokuba udaye kunye neenyanga ezintathu ukuzisika ngencakuba emva koko. Iiteknoloji zikwabandakanya isitatshi ukumelana okanye ukuxhathisa i-wax. Enye indlela, ebizwa indigo palmann , Isebenzisa i-indigo ngendlela eya kuthi idaye ilaphu elityebileyo, olunzulu ngombala wobhedu. Nangona umbala oqinileyo, indigo palmann I-boubou iyakhazimla ngokulula kwayo kangangokuba iyeke ukuhombisa. Ngezihlandlo ezingathandekiyo, abasetyhini banobubous obenziwe nge-Holland wax print okanye yokulinganisa uxwebhu lwe-wax olubizwa imilo.
Utshintsho lwezeMbali nezeJografi
Igama elithi 'boubou' livela kwisi-Wolof mbubbe. (IsiWolof lulwimi oluphambili lwaseAfrika eSenegal.) Olu lwimi lucacisa ukuba ngokuchaseneyo neendlela zokunxiba ezibolekiweyo, njengecaftan yaseArabhu kunye nesuti yaseYurophu, iboubou, njengoko abantu baseSenegal besitsho, ibisoloko iyiSenegal. Kumazwe ase-Anglophone aseNtshona Afrika, ukuqonda, ibhungane , unentsingiselo eyahlukileyo. Ingakumbi eNigeria naseGhana, i ibhungane yihempe enobude benyonga, enemikhono eyenziwe ngamacandelo ahlukeneyo elaphu kwaye ithungwe emzimbeni. Inxitywe phantsi kweboubou ende, ethi kula mazwe ibizwa ngokuba yi Umbona. Eyamadoda ibhungane ikwanxitywa yodwa neebhlukhwe ezifanayo sokoto. Abafazi banxiba ibhungane ngesisongeli.
Olu nxibelelwano lweelwimi lubonisa utshintsho lwembali kwisitayile esele senziwe ngu-boubou. Kwinkulungwane yeshumi elinethoba, i-boubou yaseSenegal, eyenziwe ngelaphu elinemicu, eyolukiweyo ngesandla, yayihlala imfutshane njenge-Nigerian yanamhlanje ibhungane , nangona ngaphandle kwemikhono (jonga uP. David Boilat kwimizobo eBoilat 1853). Ekuhambeni kwenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba, ukusetyenziswa okwandisiweyo kwelaphu elilukiweyo elenzelwe umzi-mveliso kunye nokwandiswa kwamaSilamsi kudityanisiwe ukuzisa kwimfashini yamadoda amaSilamsi ixesha elide, elinamandla ngakumbi boubou enkulu , eyayifana nekhafta yama-Arabhu. Kwasekuqaleni kwenkulungwane yamashumi amabini, njengoko amadoda angamaKristu asezidolophini aqala ukunxiba iisuti, kwaye amadoda akumgangatho ophakathi edolophini kwakufuneka anxibe iisuti zomsebenzi, amadoda amaSilamsi amkela boubou enkulu ukuzonwabisa kunye nemisitho okanye amatheko enkolo. Abafazi abahlwempuzekileyo kunye nabasebenzi babenxiba i- boubou enkulu yelaphu, yelaphu elukiweyo yelaphu. Kodwa abafumileyo abangamaSilamsi basedolophini babenxibe i-boubou yobude obusenyongeni ebabonisa iingcango (ezisongelayo) zelaphu elityebileyo elilukiweyo lesandla okanye ilaphu lesiFrentshi elingeniswe ngaphandle. Amabhinqa aselula angamaKristu amkela ilokhwe evulekileyo, enesinqe esiphakamileyo, ebizwa IsiFrentshi boubou (kwisiWolof ndoket ).
Ehle boubou enkulu kwabasetyhini zange beze kwifashoni de kwasemva kweMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi. Ukuphela kwenkulungwane yamashumi amabini, abafazi abancinci ngamanye amaxesha babedla ngokuthatha i-hip-okanye idolo-ubude boubou njengenye indlela yefashoni kunye nokunxiba okungaqhelekanga. Inkqubo ye- IsiFrentshi boubou ibuyile njengento yefashoni ephezulu, esanda kuthiwa yi mame boye (IsiWolof 'somakhulu othandekayo').
Iintsingiselo zeNkcubeko
Njengengubo ephambili yelokhwe yakudala eSenegal nakwamanye amazwe angabamelwane baseFrancophone, iboubou ithatha indawo engokomfuziselo yengubo esisiseko kwezinye iinkcubeko, ngokuthelekiswa noku kulapha kwijean eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka kwinkcubeko yaseMelika. Njengee jeans ezihlaza okwesibhakabhaka, abantu baseSenegal boubou enkulu Iqokelela kuyo ukuphindaphindeka kokusetyenziswa okuphikisanayo kunye neentsingiselo. Inokubonisa isini okanye ukuthozama. Inokufumana ukuphakama kobuhle okanye isebenzise injongo yokusebenzisa. I-boubou eyomeleleyo, efakelweyo, ewa egxalabeni kwaye iqhumise ngesiqhumiso, inganxitywa ngezithende eziphakamileyo, ubucwebe begolide, isikhafu esisentloko esidibeneyo nesibotshelelwe kwiqhina le-rakish, kunye ne-makeup engummangaliso. Le mpahla inxitywa ngamabhinqa aselula kwimitshato, kwiminyhadala yokuqanjwa kwabantwana, nakwiintsuku zomthendeleko zamaSilamsi. Le ikwayimpahla ye Dirriankhe , Umfazi ozalisekisa imeko yaseSenegal yobuhle obuhendayo. Mkhulu, uyathandeka, kwaye uhambisa imfihlo yokuzimela kunye nobutyebi. Unobugcisa bokunxiba iboubou. Ukanti iboubou ikwasisinxibo esinyanzelekileyo samatroni ahloniphekileyo amaSilamsi, athathwa njengamadala kakhulu kwaye ethozame kakhulu ukuba anganxiba iibhulukhwe ezifanelekileyo kunye neziketi zokubopha umlenze ezidlalwa ngabafazi abancinci abancinci. Kumadoda amaSilamsi, ihonjisiwe, i-damask boubou inokuba luphakama lodumo oluhle, kodwa ikwayilo ngubo efunekayo xa uthandaza kwimosque.
Bona kwakho EMntla Afrika: Imbali ngeSinxibo; I-Afrika esemaZantsi eSahara: Imbali yesinxibo; Ipagne kunye nesongelo.
Uluhlu lweencwadi
Impahla yaseNigeria eyakhiwe ngesandla
Bastian, Misty. 'Owesifazana' u-Alhajis '' kunye neFashoni yoShishino: Izazisi eziguqukayo kuMazantsi mpuma eNigeria Impahla yokuziThengisa. ' Kwi Isinxibo numahluko: Izazisi ezihlanganisiweyo kwi-Colonial and Post-Colonial Africa. Ihlelwe nguHildi Hendrickson. UDurham, NC: iDuke University Press, ngo-1996.
IBoilat, P. David. Imizobo yaseSenegal; i-physiognomy yelizwe, abantu, urhwebo, iinkolo, ezakudala nezexesha elizayo, amabali kunye neentsomi. EParis: P. Bertrand, ngo-1853.
UEicher, uJoanne Bubolz. Impahla yaseNigeria eyakhiwe ngesandla. Ile-Ife, eNigeria: IYunivesithi yase-Ife Press, ngo-1976.
UHeath, uDebhora. 'Ifashoni, i-Anti-fashion, kunye neHeteroglossia kwi-Urban Senegal.' I-Ethnologist yaseMelika 19, hayi. 2 (1992): 19-33.
UMustafa, uHuda Nura. 'I-Sartorial Ecumenes: Izitayile zaseAfrika kuMxholo weNtlalo nezoQoqosho.' Kwi Ubugcisa beFashoni yaseAfrika. Ihlelwe ngu-Els van der Plas kunye noMarlous Willemsen. I-Eritrea: I-Afrika yeHlabathi yeendaba, ngo-1998.
UPerani, uJudith, kunye noNorma H. Wolff. Indwangu, isinxibo kunye ne-Art Patronage e-Afrika. ENew York: Berg, 1999.
UPicton, uJohn, uRayda Becker, et al. Ubugcisa beLaphu laseAfrika: iTekhnoloji, iNkcubeko, kunye neLurex. ILondon: Igalari yobugcisa yaseBarbican; ILund Humphries Abapapashi, 1995.
URabine, uLeslie W. 'Ukunxiba eDakar.' UMoya wokuYila 37, hayi. 1 (1997): 84-107.
-. Ukujikeleza kweHlabathi kweFashoni yaseAfrika. IOxford: Berg, 2002.
