Imvelaphi yempahla yangaphantsi

Impahla yangaphantsi kwilayini yeempahla

Uluvo lwezinto zokunxiba ezabucala okanye ezasesidlangalaleni okanye ukuba umzimba unganxiba ngokufanelekileyo okanye unganxibanga yingqondo ehambelana eyahlukileyo ngokuhamba kwexesha nakwinkcubeko ukuya kwinkcubeko. Akukho luhlanga lwesizwe, ngaphandle kokuba luye lwangeniswa ziingcinga zelokhwe yasentshona, olubonakala ngathi lunezambatho ezinokuthathwa njengezambatho zangaphantsi: izinto zempahla ezisebenza njengomaleko wokugquma phakathi kolusu lomzimba kunye neengubo zalo zangaphandle.

U-Ted Polhemus we-anthropologist usebenzisa umzekelo we-loincloth, eyingubo kwangoko xa enxibelelana ngqo namalungu angasese kodwa kwangaxeshanye evulelekile kuluntu. Ucacisa ukuba obu budlelwane buvumelekile kwiindawo ezincinci ezisekwe apho yonke into yaziwa khona ngabathathi-nxaxheba, ngokungafaniyo namasiko alandelwe kwiindawo ezinkulu, ezinamashishini amaninzi, kwaye ke ngenxa yoko abantu abangaziwayo. Kuphela kuxa umbono wenkcubeko wabucala ubonakala ukuba iimpahla zangaphantsi zinokwenza umsebenzi wokukhusela umzimba ekuhlolweni ngokuvulekileyo kwabanye.

Kwakuse-Egypt yakudala apho umbono wokuba nolungelelwaniso lwesibini lwempahla phakathi kolusu kunye nolwangaphandle, umhombiso onxitywe ngakumbi wengubo waqulunqwa. Ngelo xesha umaleko wangaphakathi wawunxitywa ngakumbi njengophawu lwenqanaba kunaso nasiphi na isizathu esibi okanye esisebenzayo.

EYurophu nakuMntla Melika iimpahla zangaphantsi zibonakala ngathi ziphucukile kuluhlu kunye nobunzima njengoko ukubona umzimba ohamba ze usuka ekubeni yinto kawonke-wonke yemihla ngemihla ukuya ekungafunekiyo kwezentlalo, kunye neekhowudi zokuziphatha ezamkelekileyo kwezentlalo kunye nokuziphatha njengokubona umzimba oze ngasese. Izicwangciso-qhinga ziyadlala ukwenza ukuba umzimba uhlonipheke, kwaye iimpahla zangaphantsi zifezekise eyona ndima yayo iphambili, ukukhusela imimandla yesini yomzimba ekujongeni kwabanye.

ngowuphi umnwe ekufuneka ndinxibe umsesane kuwo

Ukuza kuthi ga kwinkulungwane yeshumi elinethoba impahla yangaphantsi eYurophu nakuMntla Melika yayinemisebenzi emibini ephambili: ukukhusela iimpahla zangaphandle ezibizayo kumdaka womzimba ngaphantsi, kuba ukuhlamba uninzi lwalubiza kakhulu kwaye kudla ixesha, kwaye ukongeza umaleko owongezelelekileyo wokugquma . Izinto zokuqala zezambatho zangaphantsi zazingafakwanga i-unisex kunye neelinen ezingafaniyo zeklasi ngaphandle kokuchazwa. Ngenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba, nangona kunjalo, umbono wezambatho zangaphantsi waqala ukutshintsha njengoko imfashini yaba yinto yesini.

Iimpahla zangaphantsi zahlala zisebenza kwaye zisebenza emadodeni, ikotoni isisisixhobo esisisiseko, kodwa kwabasetyhini yaba yinto engathandekiyo enceda ukufezekisa isimbo esithandwayo ngokunyanzela umzimba kunye nokufaka iikhowudi kwiindawo ezithile njengezesondo. I-corset, umzekelo, ivela kwifayile ye- kuphekiwe I-1300s, ingubo yelinen eqinileyo, kwaye yaba sisixhobo esisetyenziselwa ukunyanzela isinqe ngelixa kwangaxeshanye sitsala ingqalelo emabeleni nasezinqeni. Oku kukhokelela kuxinzelelo lwendalo kuhlobo lwempahla yangaphantsi: iyafihla kodwa kwangaxeshanye ityhila imimandla erogenous yomzimba. UAdam noEva basenokuba babewagqume ngokuthozama amalungu abo esini ngamagqabi omkhiwane, kodwa ngokwenza njalo, batsalela ingqalelo kumalungu esini emizimba yabo.

I-bra, umzekelo, ixhasa amabele kodwa kwangaxeshanye yenza ukucoca, indawo equlunqwe ngokupheleleyo ekhoyo kuphela ngenxa yempahla yangaphantsi eyenzileyo. Impahla yangaphantsi ikwakhona ukufihla ubunyani bemisebenzi yomzimba. Kwelinye icala ababukeli banomdla kwizambatho zempahla ekhululwayo kodwa bayacekiseka xa bejamelene nomkhondo womzimba oshiye ngasemva. Njengoko intetho edumileyo isithi, 'Masingaze siyihlambe ilinen yethu emdaka esidlangalaleni.'

IPolhemus ubona iimpahla zangaphantsi njengokuthintela oko akubiza ngokuba yi-erotic seepage (iphepha le-114) kwiintlanganiso zikawonke-wonke, njengakwimeko yamadoda, amadlozi abo angahlali ephantsi kolawulo lokuzithandela. Yiyo loo nto i-corset eboshwe ngokuqinileyo enxitywe ngabafazi (kunye nabantwana ukuya kuthi ga ngasekupheleni kwenkulungwane yeshumi elinesibhozo, xa ifilosofi uJean-Jacques Rousseau wayexhasa ukupheliswa kwabantwana) yayingeyonto nje yefashoni, yayikholelwa ukuba inika inkxaso kwimizimba ebuthathaka. kwabasetyhini kunye nokunyanzelisa isini sabo; abasetyhini banokuthi 'babe-straced-laced' but also 'loose.'

I-corset ikwangumzekelo wendlela ezithile zeempahla zangaphantsi eziye zangena ngaphakathi nangaphandle kwefashoni kwaye zaphinda zenziwa kwimpahla eyahlukileyo egcina umsebenzi ophambili wokubumba umzimba ube yifashoni efanelekileyo. I-couturier uPaul Poiret usenokubhengeza ukuba i-corset ifile nge-1920s, kodwa yaqhubeka nokuthatha ezinye iindlela ezinje nge-corset yokudanisa, ibhanti kunye nokuqengqeleka kwee-1950s.

Ngama-1980 i-corset yayifudukele kwimpahla yangaphandle ngomsebenzi womyili wase-Bhritane u-Vivienne Westwood owathi kwi-seminal Portrait Collection ka-1990 wabonisa ii-corsets ezishicilelweyo ezisebenzisa umsebenzi wegcisa lenkulungwane ye-18 uFrançois Boucher (1703-1770). Utshintshe umbono wonke we-corset njengento ethintela ngokwasemzimbeni impahla yangaphantsi ngokusebenzisa i-lycra endaweni ye-whalebone yoqobo okanye ukuhlala kwentsimbi kwinguqulelo yenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba. Amacala athambileyo kuyilo lwaseWestwood athetha ukuphela kwemitya ngaphambili okanye ngasemva. I-corset ngoku inokutsalwa ngaphezulu kwentloko ngokuhamba kube lula.

Ngenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba uluhlu lwempahla yangaphantsi efumanekayo kubantu basetyhini sele lusetyenzisiwe kwaye ukusetyenziswa kwayo kuthintelwe yimibono yesimilo sokuziphatha ngokwesondo kangangokuba ukuveza ngengozi impahla yangaphantsi kuthathwa njengokufela umzimba ohamba ze ngokwawo. Ngo-1930 uJ. C. Flügel kwi I-Psychology yeengubo ndizame inkcazo: 'Iimpahla, ngokungabikho kokuhonjiswa ngokucacileyo ekungajoliswanga ukuba zibonwe (ezinje ngee-corsets zabasetyhini kunye ne-suspenders, iifomu zangaphantsi zangaphantsi) xa kujongwa ngengozi kuvelisa ukungabinantlonelo kokungena kubucala okuhlala kuhleli hlazo. Kufana nokujonga 'ngasemva' size ngaloo ndlela siveze into engekhoyo '(iphepha 194). I-Vestiges yolu luvo inokubonwa kwinkcubeko yanamhlanje, enje ngemo ehlazisayo yendoda ebonwa ibhulukhwe ibhulukhwe phantsi, nokuba konke oko izakukutyhila zizambatho zangaphantsi.

Kwinkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba nasekuqaleni kwenkulungwane yamashumi amabini impahla yangaphantsi, kwezinye iimeko, ibingabhekiswa ngqo kwincoko ehloniphekileyo, kunye 'nokungachazeki' ibinzana elithandwayo. Inkulungwane yamashumi amabini izise utshintsho, nangona kunjalo, kubandakanya nokuziphatha okuthe chu ngokuthe ngcembe ngokubhekisele kwisini nakwimpahla yangaphantsi.

Into ephambili yezambatho zangaphantsi zabafazi yaphuhliswa ngo-1913 xa i-New York edlala indima ephambili uMary Phelps Jacob, phantsi kwegama elithi Caresse Crosby, wayila enye yeebras zokuqala, nangona umbono wokuxhasa amabele wabuyela kubukhosi baseRoma xa abafazi benxibe izikhafu okanye strophium ukuziphawula ngaphandle 'kwamabele' angenamabele amabele amakhoboka. I-bra kaJacob yayingenabhongo kwaye igcina i-midriff ikhululekile, ngelixa ixhoma amabele ngaphezulu kunokuba iwatyhalele phezulu ukusuka ezantsi njengoko yayinjalo i-corset.

I-Cantilevering yongezwa kwiibrasi ngeye-1950s ziifemu ezinje ngoWarner, owayethenge ilungelo lobunikazi likaJacob, kunye noTriumph, owayenombala omile okwe khonkco, othungiweyo kwi-nylon okanye i-batiste yomqhaphu eyayi nxitywa ngabantu abathandwayo baseHollywood abazelwe beSweater Girl njenge umzekelo ziinkwenkwezi ezinjengoJayne Mansfield kunye noMamie van Doren.

EMelika isuti yomanyano yabamba amadoda de kwaba ngawo-1930, xa iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zokuqala ezazinamaqhosha edyokhweni, ezazenzelwe amajoni ngexesha leMfazwe Yehlabathi I, zafumaneka ngokukhululekileyo. Isuti yomanyano, eyenziwe ngelaphu elinithiweyo efikelela ezihlahleni ukuya emaqatheni, yayiyenye yezinto zokuqala zokwenza imveliso kwishishini lempahla yangaphantsi, kwaye yagxininisa ukufudumala kunokuba intuthuzelo okanye lula. Ayenzanga kubhekiswa ngokuthe ngqo kwilungu lobudoda-ngokungafaniyo necodpiece, eyayincinci ngesini kwaye ngakumbi malunga nenqanaba kunye nenqanaba.

Nangona kunjalo, utshintsho olukhulu kwinkcubeko lwenzeka ngeminyaka yee-1930 xa i-Cooper Inc yazisa ngoyilo lwayo lwe-Jockey Y-ngaphambili kunye nokubhabha okugudileyo ukuze kube lula ukuchama. Kwakweli shumi leminyaka imbethi manqindi emfutshane, eyayinikwe abantu abasebatsha ukuba banxibe ihlobo eMelika ngexesha leMfazwe yokuQala yeHlabathi, yaqala ukwamkeleka kwimpahla yangaphantsi yamadoda. I-1960 yabona i-vogue yemibala eqaqambileyo enganxibanga kwi-nylon kunye ne-polyester yamadoda nabasetyhini, eyaqhubeka nge-1970s. Ngama-1980 abavelisi baphendule kwinto ebonakala ngathi ngumthengi osandul 'ukufundwa oyindoda, odume ngokubizwa njengoMntu oMtsha, owayenomdla okhutheleyo ekuzilungiseni kwakhe, kwaye, kwimpahla yakhe yangaphantsi.

UCalvin Klein wanceda ekuvuseleleni ubudoda njengokwabelana ngesondo ekupheleni kwenkulungwane yamashumi amabini ngephulo lakhe lokuthengisa ngumfoti uHerb Ritts ngo-1993, esebenzisa umlingisi oguqukayo oyinkwenkwezi uMark Wahlberg. UWahlberg waboniswa kwiimpahla zangaphantsi zikaCalvin Klein njengomntu onamandla ngokwesondo, eguqula ulwimi lwentengiso kunye nokumelwa kwemizimba yamadoda. UWahlberg ubonakalise umzimba wakhe osebenze ngokungathi ulinxibile kwiphulo lokuthengisa eliqhelekileyo elinomtsalane kubo bobabini abesilisa nabasetyhini. Umzimba womntu unokwabelana ngesondo ngaphandle kwamaphepha emifanekiso engamanyala, kwaye abantu basetyhini banokufumana uyolo ekujongeni. Amandla entlalo nasemzimbeni obudoda awazange abonakaliswe kuphela kwilizwe lomsebenzi, kodwa ngomzimba ohamba ze onxibe iimpahla zangaphantsi eziyiliweyo.

Ngelixa iimpahla zangaphantsi zamadoda zazidlala ngombono wezinto ezingaqhelekanga kunye nokusebenza, iimpahla zangaphantsi zabasetyhini zaqala ukubhekisa kwimbaleki, zibonisa ukwanda komdla kunye nokuthatha inxaxheba kwimithambo nakwilizwe lenkcubeko. Ukusukela kwinkulungwane yamashumi amabini, njengoko imeko yezenkcubeko ngokubhekisele kwabasetyhini kunye nemidlalo itshintshile kwaye iimbaleki endaweni yomsebenzi wokuzala ziye zamkelwa, abavelisi baphendule ngempahla yangaphantsi esebenzayo. Olunye uphuhliso olubalulekileyo yayikukuyilwa kwenylon ngo-Dupont ngo-1938, eyanceda ekwenziweni kwamanqanaba olondolozo olulula, iimpahla zangaphantsi ezomileyo. I-Lycra yalandelwa yenziwa ngo-1950, umbandela omtsha wentambo ephothiweyo yemisonto emibini: i-polyester eyenziweyo okanye i-polyamide, kunye ne-elastic fiber okanye i-spandex.

Impahla yangaphantsi ebhekise ngqo kwiimbaleki yayikukufikelela kubude obuphakamileyo ngee-1980s xa umthambo wokuzivocavoca umzimba kunye nomzimba osandula ukufowunelwa kunye neembumbulu ezalandela zaba yinto elungileyo yabasetyhini. Imbaleki uHinda Miller wasungula ibragi yezemidlalo, eyaba yiklasikhi yoyilo lwangaphantsi yabasetyhini, eyenziwe ngelaphu eloluliweyo elingenazo izinto zokubopha ukuze kutsalwe entloko ngokulula-impendulo ethe ngqo kwiimfuno zabasetyhini ababhinqileyo abangenileyo kwifashoni. Ibhola yezemidlalo iye yaba luphawu lwendlela yokuphila esempilweni kunengubo enxibe nje iimbaleki zabasetyhini. Kwasekuqaleni kwenkulungwane yamashumi amabini ananye izinto ezininzi zangaphantsi zazinolawulo lomzimba njengomsebenzi wazo ophambili. Iitabo ezijikeleze ukutya kunye nokugcina ukusebenza okungaphakathi komzimba kucocekile ngokutya okunezinto eziphilayo kunye nezenzo ezinje ngokunkcenkceshela ikholoniyali kube nefuthe kuyilo lwangaphantsi, oluvusa 'ubume bendalo' kunye 'nokulula' ukufanisa ukutyeba kwenkulungwane yamashumi amabini ananye kunye ubunjineli bomzimba. Okumangalisayo kukuba, oku kukhangeleka ngathi 'kungokwemvelo' kujongwa ngaxeshanye kugxininiswa kwizinto ezingezizo ezombala weWonderbra kunye nezinye iindlela zokunxiba iimpahla zangaphantsi.

Impahla yangaphantsi ayisathembeki, kwaye abayili abaphambili befashoni kunye nabantu abadumileyo bakulungele ukuboleka amagama abo okanye ukwazisa uluhlu lwezinto zangaphantsi zendlela-ukusuka kwimodeli yase-Australia u-Elle Macpherson kunye ne-pop star uKylie Minogue ukuya kwiimveliso ezinje ngoTommy Hilfiger no Chanel. Impahla yangaphantsi yelebheli loyilo ithwala i-cachet enjalo yabathengi abancinci ukuba itsalwe emzimbeni ukuze iboniswe ngokuvulekileyo phezu kwamabhanti eebhulukhwe, kulandela ukubonakala kwasekuqaleni okunxulunyaniswa nabalinganiswa benkcubeko yehip-hop eSouth Bronx yaseNew York e ngeminyaka yoo-1980.

Bona kwakho ICorset; Iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zeJockey; Iilwimi zangaphantsi; Slip.